Resurrecting an abandon hydronic system...
About 4 years ago we bought a house in Northern AZ, it has forced air heat and AC, but also baseboard heaters. There was a shop area that has piping and gas that was used for the boiler. That was removed years before we bought the place.
Short story from the PO was the boiler failed and the heating contractor told them it was not worth repairing, then the contractor installed 4 rooftop forced air furnace/AC units.
I have baseboard radiators in the rooms, and each room has a valve and thermostat. I believe the DHW was heated by the boiler, the hot water heaters where replaced with electric and I have installed solar water heaters (and PV too). I'll need a few new radiators as 3 rooms were remodeled and the hydronic removed. I put ball valves in those pipes to isolate them until I can add radiators.
There is a total of 208' of baseboard radiators in 11 rooms, including an allowance for the rooms with the radiators removed.
The house is ~4000 sq ft, 4500' elevation, block walls with little insulation.
Ceiling is insulated, slab floor is not.
Heat loss calc that Ive done using both the Taco and Slantfin are:
Taco = 120000 BTU
Slantfin = 137600 BTU
That is based on an outdoor temp of 20deg.
Figuring the baseboards at 600 BTU a foot comes out to ~125000 BTU.
These figures are all in a range that seems OK...??
The piping is set up like a 'U' with the boiler at the bottom and the legs of the U going to two wings of the house. There was a separate pump for each leg.
The west wing has 7 loops, each with a zone valve, east wing has 5 loops, each with a zone valve. Each zone valve had a thermostat controlling it.
The zone valves are Flair, and all that Ive checked are bad. I'll need to replace all the valves.
The piping is 1.25 copper for the U, and 3/4 copper for the loops. There is one large loop that is 1" copper in the living room. That loop has 72 feet of radiator.
Im looking at getting pretty much a whole system here, with the exception of the piping and baseboard radiators.
I will need a boiler and all the components that go with it, new zone valves and associated controls.
SO! Im looking for help laying this out, what boiler, valves, controls would work for me and any comments on the layout!
I think I should go with a cast boiler, but not sure...
Id like valves that would be easy to install and replace as the crawl space in the attic is not very high;} Old Flair valves are sweated on.
There are a few baseboard radiators that need to be replaced, any recommendations for these? Not sure of the manufacturer of the ones I have.
I'll do all the work myself, I believe I have the skillset for this.. At least I hope so ;}
Since its getting warm in Arizona I'll do some of the work now and some later this fall. Since I have the forced air heat/AC Im not in a rush, and have time to plan and get parts. That attic crawl space is real hot in the summer!
Attached is a photo of the remaining piping for the hydronic system. You can see the hose and pressure gauge I used to check out what leaks I had, and flush the system.
Any help/advice/information appreciated!!
Thanks, Joe
About 4 years ago we bought a house in Northern AZ, it has forced air heat and AC, but also baseboard heaters. There was a shop area that has piping and gas that was used for the boiler. That was removed years before we bought the place.
Short story from the PO was the boiler failed and the heating contractor told them it was not worth repairing, then the contractor installed 4 rooftop forced air furnace/AC units.
I have baseboard radiators in the rooms, and each room has a valve and thermostat. I believe the DHW was heated by the boiler, the hot water heaters where replaced with electric and I have installed solar water heaters (and PV too). I'll need a few new radiators as 3 rooms were remodeled and the hydronic removed. I put ball valves in those pipes to isolate them until I can add radiators.
There is a total of 208' of baseboard radiators in 11 rooms, including an allowance for the rooms with the radiators removed.
The house is ~4000 sq ft, 4500' elevation, block walls with little insulation.
Ceiling is insulated, slab floor is not.
Heat loss calc that Ive done using both the Taco and Slantfin are:
Taco = 120000 BTU
Slantfin = 137600 BTU
That is based on an outdoor temp of 20deg.
Figuring the baseboards at 600 BTU a foot comes out to ~125000 BTU.
These figures are all in a range that seems OK...??
The piping is set up like a 'U' with the boiler at the bottom and the legs of the U going to two wings of the house. There was a separate pump for each leg.
The west wing has 7 loops, each with a zone valve, east wing has 5 loops, each with a zone valve. Each zone valve had a thermostat controlling it.
The zone valves are Flair, and all that Ive checked are bad. I'll need to replace all the valves.
The piping is 1.25 copper for the U, and 3/4 copper for the loops. There is one large loop that is 1" copper in the living room. That loop has 72 feet of radiator.
Im looking at getting pretty much a whole system here, with the exception of the piping and baseboard radiators.
I will need a boiler and all the components that go with it, new zone valves and associated controls.
SO! Im looking for help laying this out, what boiler, valves, controls would work for me and any comments on the layout!
I think I should go with a cast boiler, but not sure...
Id like valves that would be easy to install and replace as the crawl space in the attic is not very high;} Old Flair valves are sweated on.
There are a few baseboard radiators that need to be replaced, any recommendations for these? Not sure of the manufacturer of the ones I have.
I'll do all the work myself, I believe I have the skillset for this.. At least I hope so ;}
Since its getting warm in Arizona I'll do some of the work now and some later this fall. Since I have the forced air heat/AC Im not in a rush, and have time to plan and get parts. That attic crawl space is real hot in the summer!
Attached is a photo of the remaining piping for the hydronic system. You can see the hose and pressure gauge I used to check out what leaks I had, and flush the system.
Any help/advice/information appreciated!!
Thanks, Joe
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