mardi 31 mars 2015

DSC 832 will adding LCD5500 help

I have a DSC 832 with LED5511 keypads and I added WS4945 wireless door sensors. The keypads are 8 zone and the addition of the WS4945's pushed this to 9 zones so the keypad shows nothing of what is happening on the new wireless sensors. They work and alarm but I don't know which door opened. If I change to a LCD5500 can I see which door opens? Also can I get more error info than I get with the LED5511?

DSC 832 will adding LCD5500 help

Basement flooding from Water coming up outside drain

I have a home built in 1960 with a daylight basement. The floor is about 2' below grade, maybe less.

There is a basement door with a little stairwell (2 stairs) and at the base of the stairs, there is a drain. Very little water actually gets into the stairwell from rain as it is fairly protected.

It appears to me that the drain is connected to a french drain, more or less, that extends into the backyard.

The threshold is about 1" off the slab.

The ground where I am has a small amount of decent soil, turns to clay about 8" down and to fairly solid stone about 18" down. We also live on a hill that drains away from the house.

In times of heavy and prolonged rain, the water table rises faster than it can drain down the hill and it can't really sink deep into the ground.

When this happens, water actually bubbles up from the drain, pools until it gets above the threshold and then comes in.

We are planning on selling the house soon and I don't want to put a ton into fixing this and I don't want to break up the concrete to install a pump or anything like that.

So far, the only idea I have had is to set a pump in the stairwell for those times.

I know this may not be the best solution, so I am curious if anyone has a better solution that would still be fairly inexpensive and not a huge time commitment as I have little time left for this.



Thank you!

Basement flooding from Water coming up outside drain

HVAC system help

Kinda long, but could really use some help!!



A couple of weeks ago out nest thermostat read, "e24, no power from Rh". We got our nest last summer and has worked both heating and cooling. Suddenly, and perhaps more that coincidentally, it stopped working when we changed it from heat to cool.



I have a 1989 Lennox G12 gas furnace. It doesn't have a circuit board, but more a terminal with R W Y G T terminals. R W and G have 1 wire each input. Y has 0 input. T has 2 input wires. R W Y and G are all output to the thermostat. The Y and T terminals output to the outside unit.



The first thing I tried, after much research, was to connect a second output wire to the T terminal as a "common wire" and connected it with the thermostat. The thermostat had power and fan would come on, but not the outside unit.



At some point along the way the transformer in the furnace blew so I replaced it.



Right now I can get:

R-Y - 26v

R-G - 26v

R-B - 26v

R-W - 13v



these readings are for at the thermostat and at the terminals.



Another problem is when I connect the blue wire as the common wire, I can only get 13v to the outside unit. However, if I don't connect the blue wire as the common wire, I get the, "e24" error again and the thermostat says it doesn't have power (Voc~8).



I have replaced the contactor, capacitor, and fan capacitor.



When I have the common wire attached and the thermostat has power, I can manually press the contactor and the outside unit starts up and blows cold air.



The problem is for some reason I cannot get power to both my thermostat and 24v to energize the contactor at the same time.



Any ideas would be appreciated!



Thanks!

HVAC system help

Removing flywheel 12hp riding mower

Hit a stump while mowing killed engine. Restarted with a boost from truck. Finished mowing yard. Next time I tried to start mower would not hit just turn over. This mower in a 1990 Lowes 42in deck. Thought I may have sheared pin in flywheel, tried to remove flywheel with harmonic balancer puller would not move. Got it soaking in WD 40 until I get back to mower. Any sugestion?

Removing flywheel 12hp riding mower

2002 Chevy Impala, wipers stuck in the vertical.

We had a few inches of very wet/heavy snow this morning. My daughter chose to activate her wipers instead of using a broom. She believes it wasn't so much the up-swing under load as much as the blades being kept from returning down all the way to the stops. I checked the 25a fuse and it's good. The wipers work but return to the vertical when done. The fuel gauge is swinging erratically as well. I finally disconnected the pos batt term for five minutes to no avail.

Thanks for any help.

2002 Chevy Impala, wipers stuck in the vertical.

Converting AC Lighting To DC

I am restoring a vintage trailer and found an AC light fixture that I would like to install in the trailer. I would like to keep all of my lighting 12V. Can I use the AC fixture simply by connecting it to my 12V wiring and utilizing a 12V bulb??

Converting AC Lighting To DC

carrier air handler

Good afternoon everyone,



My name is Kevin. I have a carrier 2 ton r410 unit the model number on the air handler is fx4dnf025. It has an ECM motor in it. It is a fixed motor, I guess is what you call it. it has speed taps for selecting the speed. Is there a way to "aftermarketly" wire in a fan control, or by some other means, make it run as a variable speed motor? Trying to work on dehumidifying the house a bit more.



thanks in advance,



Kevin

carrier air handler

Briggs Stratton engine 5hp I/C starts ok, runs, but will not rev

Model 132232, type 0322-01, Pulsa Jet Carb.(Mechanical governor), remote throttle on rotavator.

The engine starts with choke, but will only idle on the fastest ‘Run’ setting and will idle without choke when warm. The throttle shaft on the carb body oscillates on its own, pulsing the revs at idle.

When I spotted this I found that if I operate the throttle spindle manually at the carb body, I can make the engine rev fully and without any misfire or smoke.

The engine stood unused for 3 years and the things tried so far are -

- Checking governor and throttle spring and linkages. Difficult to see, but I think they are all there and connected correctly.

- New spark plug, oil and air filter

- New petrol

- Throttle cable adjusted

- New diaphragm and cleaned accessible passageways with diaphragm cover removed

- Checked choke works as it should with air filter removed

- Removed and cleaned idle needle valve and jet

- Looked at lots of internet posts

This is the Atco Merry Tiller model where the remote throttle connects to the engine below the fuel tank close to where the governor shaft exits the engine.

Rather not strip the carb until all other possibilities explored, particularly as it runs ok when throttle on carb body is turned directly.

Any advice welcome please. Pete (1st post)

Briggs Stratton engine 5hp I/C starts ok, runs, but will not rev

Extending a counter to allow for seating without replacing entire countertop

Hello, I am considering a change to my kitchen and want to get some opinions. My kitchen currently has a peninsula that would be perfect to have seating for my three kids along the back of the peninsula, if that makes any sense. I have seen a similar house in my neighborhood that had such an upgrade and I really liked it. However, I have no desire to replace my countertops at this time. So here's my thought:



My counters are laminate, and I know the brand and the color pattern. I was considering having a piece made, the exact length of the existing counter, and 18" wide with the same style rounded edge as my existing countertop. My existing counter has about a 2" overhang. I was thinking, I could take the new piece and mount it flush up underneath the existing overhang, so it would be like a 16" extension with a small step down from the existing counter. I hope that makes sense and I'm explaining it properly.



I wonder if this will look nice or awkward? I planned to use some of those super heavy duty countertop support brackets into the back of the cabinet, but I'm afraid the back of the cabinet isn't quite beefy enough to support the new piece. I might be able to add some wooden supports inside the cabinet to beef up the area that the brackets would screw into. I was thinking I could also screw the new counter into the bottom of the old counter (into that two inch overhang) to keep it snugged up nicely against the existing counter.



I visualize it to kinda come out looking like a flip-up section, like a table leaf, but it will not be level with the existing counter, it will be a step down. And of course it will not flip down.



Does anyone have opinions on this? Will it look stupid? I really don't want or need to replace my countertops as they are in great shape and I still like them enough to not want to scrap them. Any tips or advise on this job would be appreciated. Thank you.

Extending a counter to allow for seating without replacing entire countertop

Briggs and Stratton 190CC 725EX Help

I have a Troy-Bilt TB230 self-propelled push lawn mower with a Briggs and Stratton 190cc 725EX series engine without a primer bulb. I have had the law mower for about two seasons and have not had any issues before now. I finally decided to give it a go this season with the weather warming up. The tank was empty, so I filled it with fresh gas, topped off the oil, and tried to start it with no luck. I did a little research and have since replaced the spark plug, air filter, and carburetor (it was a fiasco in and of itself trying to figure out the appropriate part number for the carburetor). After replacing the carburetor, the engine will turn over and idle at a really low RPM (far more than it was doing before) for about a minute before turning off. While this is happening, the self-propelled mechanism will just barely creep the lawnmower along if you depress the lever. I've since tried inspecting the brand new spark plug again and it appears to be flooded with oil and gasoline. At this point, I'm out of ideas. I'm not very experienced with small engine maintenance and I'm really not sure where to go from here...



Any suggestions are much appreciated...

Briggs and Stratton 190CC 725EX Help

Water in the garage :(

Hi all,



I have been in my house a little over a year... this is my second winter. No issues first year (at least that I noticed!).. This year, I got some water in the garage



I got a free visit from a landscape architect. He recommended:


  1. regrading the soil behind the garage so it slopes away (right now, it slopes TO the garage--we think due to settling after the previous owner had a swimming pool filled in.

  2. adding a dry well (actually, based on a landscaper quote, adding TWO? drywells?) and running the downspouts to the dry well






I had the landscaper this architect recommended (the job was too small for the architect to oversee) come out. He gave me a quote of almost $5,000!! I expected half this amount. I have seen videos of how to install a drywell--maybe the regrading is the pricey part?



Anyway, my question is this: how 'hard' is regrading? What are the steps involved? The area in question is maybe 25'x50'...



Wondering if I can do this myself... Do I need to rent anything?



Any advice most appreciated!

Water in the garage :(

insulation

If you smear a thin coat of woodworkers glue on one side of a piece of finish plywood say 4x4 inches ,have you insulated that surface side electrically or partly??

insulation

Moles and Armadillo issues

Hello all.



I've owned 3 houses in the last 12 years, and this is the first yard I've had this issue.



I noticed some mole issues in the fall of last year (and finally killed it) and then I had an armadillo issue the whole winter. I've probably got 50 holes (couple of inches to a 6 inches deep) across my back yard.



I've got a plan to deal with the grubs that the critters are after, but what options do I have to fix the holes? I know I could stuff some soil in all of them, but is their any quick way to do this?

Moles and Armadillo issues

Heat randomly stays on in one zone

Hi all,



I have a 3 zone hot water baseboard heating system and for the past year, the heat in the top floor would sometimes stay on. Once this happened, I usually could get it to turn off by manually turning the heat up past the current temp and then turning it off again. This happened about once a week so it didn't seem to be a big deal.



Yesterday, the heat was on again so I tried turning it on+off but nothing happened after I did it several times. I finally went down and purged the zone and things seemed to be okay. Then at 5am this morning I woke up to a boiling bedroom and tried turning it on+off several times and nothing happened. In frustration at having been woken up I shook the thermostat and hit it with my palm and tried turning it on+off again and lo and behold that did the trick and the baseboards cooled down.



I have replaced the thermostat two weeks ago so it's not the thermostat. I do hear a click at the thermostat whenever it calls for and turns off the heat. I have circulator pumps so I don't think a zone valve is getting stuck. Now I suspect the wiring as it's the only thing that makes sense after it 'worked' when I jiggled and slapped the thermostat.



What could be going on and what can I do to fix it? Thanks!

Heat randomly stays on in one zone

can flexible duct tie straps be doubled up?

I got the longest malco ties at HD- 48". It only is specced to a 15" pipe. So I got some 60" ties from amazon and they seem sketchy compared to the malcos. I'd hate to have one fail due to construction. Can I just get some 36" malcos and strap 2 ties together to make one on each 16" pipe connection?

can flexible duct tie straps be doubled up?

Holes Cement Prior Engineered Flooring Installation

After ripping out my carpets and the wood nailed to the slab there are many holes (most not too deep) in the cement. Should I fill these holes with some type of floor leveling compound prior to installation? Maybe it really doesn't matter? Thanks!

Holes Cement Prior Engineered Flooring Installation

Water comes out of shower when turned off

I rebuilt our shower and installed a new Moen shower-only faucet. With the actual faucet handle in the out of the box 'off' position (pointed at 6:00), I turned on the hot water line in the floor. No problem. When I turned on the cold water line in the floor, water began coming out of the shower head even with the handle still off.



Any ideas what could cause this and how to fix it?



Thanks

-Steve

Water comes out of shower when turned off

Heating and Cooling are the BTU's Measured in a different way?

I have always wondered if heating and cooling BTU's are measured in a different way. I know the obvious one is cold and one is hot but why is the heating always a way higher number the the cooling?

I have a Frigidaire Window AC unit that could have had a heating option (I believe electric resistance heater and not a heat pump) while the cooling BTU is 8,000 the heating would have been 9,500 BTU



Thanks

Heating and Cooling are the BTU's Measured in a different way?

My Kandi go kart fuel pump

Hi guys, I got a Kandi go kart not that long ago and I would like to install a fuel pump in addition to the gravity fed. I did some research about where to connect the pulse line and found that where I should connect it is already connected to the pcv. My question is, do I need a pcv or can I tap into the pulse line of the pcv to run a fuel pump? Thanks.

My Kandi go kart fuel pump

Range Hood Replacement - Wire Connectors? ...

Hi Folks,



I will be replacing a range hood tomorrow morning and just wanted to ask others with electrical knowledge, what preference they use when "hooking up" the wires.



Basically, in connecting the unit to the existing electrical feed using the wire caps, I have heard some people say they NEVER twist the wires and others say they ALWAYS twist the wires, prior to tightening up the connections with the wire caps.



Either way, I would always give a light tug on the wire caps to ensure a solid connection.



Could I ask which is the correct/safest approach?



Many thanks in advance,

Cal :)

Range Hood Replacement - Wire Connectors? ...

lundi 30 mars 2015

Mounting to Stucco

I mounted some brackets to stucco last summer to hold up a 8k BTU Air Conditioner. Although it worked last summer, when I put the AC away for the season, I noticed that the anchor and screw were coming loose.



I think mounting against stucco would be a bad choice. Therefore, I am planning to mount the brackets to a stud.



I am planning to use this to find the stud (very good tool):

Precision Sensors Professional Stud Finder



AC is probably about 40lbs, at least the half that is sticking out of the window.



Questions:

What is between the stud and stucco?:wall: Do I just use a masonry drill bit and drill until I hit the stud? What type of screw and how long should I use?



Thanks

Mounting to Stucco

2012 cr v

Hi All, need some opinions on which brake pads to use on my 2012 CR V, ceramic or semi metallic? Also I have not looked at anything behind the wheel but are the slider bolts hex head ,or will I need Torx head sockets?

Thanks

Geo

2012 cr v

Not just Bon Jovi's biggest album

I have a 7' by 3' part of a sidewalk that was not given a course finish and when it rains that section is like a ice skating rink I was wondering what is the best/easiest way to give this section a rough surface so I don't do a faceplant on it?



Thanks

Mike

Not just Bon Jovi's biggest album

Carpet Seams

Older home with a ladder that leads to a loft I currently use as office space. The room measures 9'x12' but because there's a 6"x4" beam, and since I do not have a clue how to make a cut around this beam, I am considering breaking the area into 2 sections and purchasing 2 separate pieces of carpet; 1 measuring 8x12 and the other 4x8, which will require some trimming. There will be a run of approx. 6' where I will need to seam, or attach the 2 pieces together and I am not sure of the best way of going about it?? I will also need to anchor the edges along the walls and since it involves such a small room I thought I would see if possible to rent a kicker?? Suggestions, comments appreciated!!

Carpet Seams

Motor Wiring

I want to wire a motor for my bead roller so I can have it forward and reverse,the motor I am using is a single phase one that can be reversed by switching two wires, I want to use two momentary DPDT foot switches to do this , are these the right swithes to use and if so how do I wire them Thanks

Motor Wiring

Finding what a switch controls

Is there any tricks to find out what a "dead" switch controls? In my house I have several switches which seem to do nothing. They do not seem to control receptacles or obvious lights. They are definitely LIVE.

Finding what a switch controls

Tracing a dead Receptacle

Is there a way to trace dead receptacles/wiring? My situation is as follows: Several years ago I moved into a fairly old house (1920's). Scattered in my lawn there are various receptacles & capped wires - some coming out of the ground, some running up in trees. They are fairly broken up & show no signs of life. As long as I have been in the house they have never worked. There are no obvious "off" breakers in my fuse boxes. Is there a way of tracing these dead lines back to the circuit panel? For all I know they were abandoned years ago.

Tracing a dead Receptacle

sump pit

Does a sump pit have to be flush with concrete? I am installing a large rolled top basin (24x36) to accommodate two sump pumps. However, I can't dig any deeper so it will protrude 4 inches above the floor. Is this a code violation?

sump pit

dimanche 29 mars 2015

Front Brick wall settling, Bricks setting on porch the problem?

Sorry! For the long explanation, just trying to give all the details.



I’m having a problem with the lower front bricks on my house where I have a porch, it appears some of the bricks are settling (dropping) a few of the mortar joints have separated by about 1/8” to 1/4” or so and the limestone window ledge is also loose because of this dropping or movement.



My house is about 9 years old. The brick walls this is happening to surround my front porch which is approx 6’ deep (house entrance@ the East side of the porch) to end of the porch (West) and is 18’ wide (North end at garage wall to South end @ house wall). I have poured foundation walls with a brick ledge for the front brick and there are not any problems on the rest of the front of the house, this is just a problem with the porch area.



This is what I think my problem is. The builder had my front porch concrete slab poured before the brick was installed. Unfortunately I assumed there wouldn’t be any problem with the brick setting on the porch which has all 4 sides on a foundation (10’ basement walls on S & E and 4’ or ?’ for the North garage side and West street facing side). I assume maybe the sand and dirt fill under the porch may have moved or raised and lowered the porch off the foundation a little because of freezing and thawing or maybe water just laid up against the bottom mortar joint resting on the porch and it has deteriorated (doesn’t look that bad). The area in front of the porch gets a lot of water from roof run off.



I think I have a few options that maybe can fix this. The first is to remove the porch pad and redo the brick down to the brick ledge (if brick ledge is put on the outside wall of the basement (which is the inside wall of the porch). Pour a new porch and let it float or tie it to the house with re-rod?



The second option is to leave the porch slab and remove 2- 3 rows of bricks on all 3 sides and install angle iron on the house wall about ½” above the porch slab and let the bricks set on the angle iron. Would this work? Would attaching the angle iron every 16” be okay?



The third option is to have the porch slab raised by one of the places that pumps mud under the porch pad.



I've called a 2 tuck-pointing contractors and they never showed up, a basement contractor looked at it and I told him of idea #2 and he wanted me to hire an engineer to approve it, I told him he wouldn't have to warranty it, just do it and I’d take the responsibility if it failed again.



I guess what is the correct way to fix this ? any idea’s would be appreciated.



Thank You! for reading through this long post.

Front Brick wall settling, Bricks setting on porch the problem?

Lennox Furnace

Hello everyone,



Having a problem with my Lennox furnace. This winter out of the blue while the heat was on the A/C unit outside kicked on. After looking at it I found out that the heat would run for a few minutes and then the unit would turn on outside. This would happen sometimes and then not. Nothing was changed or worked on the system. I replaced the thermostat thinking that was it but that made no difference. I have a simple dial thermostat nothing fancy. below are the model # and Ser # if that helps. I live in the Chicago area and it is not a heat pump system. Thanks for any help in this. I have turned the breaker off to the unit outside till I figure this out.



Model# G12Q3-82-6

Serial # 2187M65089

Lennox Furnace

2001 Olds Aurora ABS dash light.

The ABS dash light came on, while not even pressing the brake pedal. Now it will come on every time the car is used, at varying times, after its been driven some. Is this normally the same thing or could it be one of many?

Thanks in advance.

2001 Olds Aurora ABS dash light.

new thermostat created a short at the air handler

Help....

I have one of the old mercury thermostats (Janitrol HPT 1860) and wanted to replace it with a digital thermostat. (Honeywell RTH2410B) So I followed the directions, flipped breakers off and terminated the wires. I flipped the breaker back on and tested it. Fan On - worked. Air Conditional works. When I switched to "Heat" - something at the air handler "blew"! Nothing worked anymore.

I realized what I connected the "Blue" wire on the new thermostat at "B"! Wrong thing to do......?



I hooked my old thermostat back up and nothing works. No fan, fan compressor, no heat. This is a Goodman AW24-05C system in a condo, all electric. I can't find a low voltage fuse.... can't figure out what blew....

Can Anybody help?

Thanks

new thermostat created a short at the air handler

temp power at the main

I am building a new house. PG&E has brought power to the meter at the property line. ultimately the house will be built another 60 feet away from the panel/meter.

For this reason the meter/main does not have distribution. BUT....I need temp power at the meter location. I was thinking of simply adding a small 70 amp 2 breaker box next to meter/main servicing 2 GFI outlets for temp power.



My question is.....can I run #2/0 from 200 amp main breaker right into a 20 amp breaker in the little sub panel? or is there some sort of "step down" in amps I need to do?



Thanks in advance....

temp power at the main

Help needed with schematic for 5V battery charger

Hello!



I am looking for a schematic to design and build my own PCB or PCM (protected circuit board/module).



It needs the following:

- 5V 2A input

- Charge 3 "14500" (14mm diameter x 50mm height) cells of 800mAh each in parallel.

- 5V 2A output



Might be awesome if the input could be directly redirected to the output when something is connected on both. This so the batteries wouldn't be used for nothing.

When nothing is connected to the output (or I might insert a switch in between) the batterypack will be charged.



Batteryspace.com told me I needed the following devices (and I quote):

"1. A charging board that will allow 5V input to charge a 3.7V Li-Ion battery



2. A PCB that offer over charge, over discharge protection.



3. An output step-up board that step up a 3.7V Li-Ion battery to 5V for output."



I think I need something like this, cause it looks this one does all:

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx



I might buy one of these for testing first.

Eventually I want to put the schematic on a board with specific measures; that's why I couldn't buy one which is prefabricated (and eBay usually offers bad quality products).

Software like KiCad and Fritzing should help me with this.



Thanks in advance!

Help needed with schematic for 5V battery charger

concrete step repair...

Hi I live i Massachusetts.tough winters!

My home has an older set of concrete steps (3 steps).I have done some repairs on them over the years..I genarally use "Quickqrete" fast setting cement sold in dry powder form ( sold in a pail),you mix yourself.Recently a chunck of one of the corners broke off,appox 6".I would like any tips for a stronger repairTthis cement is easy to use,and hardens quick,but I seem to have mixed results?Any tips Thanks

concrete step repair...

Murray riding mower Starter turning slowly

Model # 42576X92B 42" cut 2000 model. Brighs and stratton 16.5 hp OHV high performance I/C engine model # 313777 type 0134-E1. The mower cranked and ran 3 days ago, although it turned slowly when cranking. The battery is new. I tried jumping it off with the car but it still turned slowly. Also tried jumping it with cables connected directly to starter and frame with same results. Tried cranking with the plug out and it spins fine then. The flywheel turns freely. I know about the compression valve, but would it have cranked 3 days ago if this was the problem? I need to avoid any unnecessary repairs or parts due to a limited budget. Any help would be appreciated.

Murray riding mower Starter turning slowly

Load center organisation

I have a large 4 level home that I am doing a little work to and I need some ideas as to where to run wires to the 2, 40 breaker load centers.

My question is, should I run all the wires from each floor to one load center? There are 2 rows of spaces on each load center, should I run each floor to one row? Or should I use the bottom 20 spaces for basement and the top 20 spaces for floor 1 on load center one and the bottom 20 spaces for floor 2 and the top 20 spaces for floor 3 on load center two?



All comments are appreciated.

Load center organisation

Question about botched fence job

Our neighbors put in a six-foot cedar fence (they have two dogs), and when we got a dog recently, we decided to contract with the same company. The fellow who gave the estimate (we thought a contractor, turns out a salesman) understood clearly we wanted a dog security fence like the neighbors -- only difference we requested was a one-foot lattice at the top so it looks less monolithic.



Unfortunately, when the job was complete, they had left numerous 3 to 5 inch gaps between the ground and the fence. There are more places with large gaps than places where the fence goes to the ground. Turns out the crew were subcontractors, not the same crew that did the neighbor's fence. The company's rep by phone said -- while the crew was still present -- that they should fill those gaps with dirt. Didn't sound optimal to me, but when I passed the rep's instructions along to the crew chief, he just said "no, we're done."



Called the company back, and the owner came right over. He said filling the gaps with dirt wouldn't work. He also said the gaps -- this is more than a 200-foot length of fence -- were due to a single oak tree's roots that supposedly dictated the lack of consistency. (Somehow, though our neighbor's fence 50 feet away and is interrupted by several oak trees, it uniformly comes within an inch or less of the ground.) The explanation defies logic. You have posts, you hammer the fence sections to the posts. You can either align the sections with the ground or with the tops of the posts. They made the wrong choice.



While the cement was wet, he said it wouldn't be his recommendation, but if I insisted, they would use a sledgehammer to drive the posts deeper. (Which pretty much negates his explanation about the tree.) I replied that, since he didn't recommend it, I didn't want them to do that. They took a sledgehammer to one of the posts anyway. It was by now pitch dark out -- no way to make any informed decisions or assessments of what they were trying to do. I insisted that they stop, and that is where the fence stands now.



Do any experts on the forum have an opinion of this, or any advice about how to fix it? My sense is that the proper way to fix it would be to remove the fence sections and reaffix them at the proper level.

Question about botched fence job

Wiring in old 3 light bath fixture runs through to all three separate lights

I'm changing my bathroom light and the existing one have a center backplate and stem that goes to 3 individual lights. Took set screws out of backplate and see that black and white wires (2 ea) run through stem to each individual light. I expected they'd be capped in the box and i could just disconnect the wires at that point and be able to take the old light down. Should I cut the wires at the metal stem and then pull the light fixture off? The breaker is off.

Wiring in old 3 light bath fixture runs through to all three separate lights

blower and inducer wont shut off

I have a tempstar hc90. I noticed that the room temperature was dropping and the blower was blowing cold air. There is no flame. After researching all night i bypassed the 2 limit switches cause i thought that sounded like the problem but noooo, still freezing! Cleaned the flame sensor rod but would that or the ceramic thing that heats up (sorry cant remember the name) cause the blower and inducer to run constantly even with the thermostat off? Also changed batteries in thermostat. Please help

blower and inducer wont shut off

GFI breaker tripped when installing ceiling fan and won't reset

Okay so normally i would have shut off the breaker when installing a new fan instead I made sure the light switches were off and tested the wiring in the ceiling to make sure nothing was hot.



Took down the old generic round light and found both a red and black in the ceiling, black not being used, red feeding the light. There are three wall switches and all other rooms had been wired for fans/lights. So wiring I hooked up the ground wires, neutrals, then black to black (not previously used) and red to the blue fan wire. Put it all together, flipped the switch the light came on. Flipped the fan switch and then went to pull the chain but it was stuck so shut it all back off and undid a few pieces to free up the pull chain.



The second I pulled the fan pull chain, with the wall switch off, the whole bedroom went dark and breaker was tripped.



So, makig sure the switches were off, i shut off other lamps that were on and went to reset the breaker. It's a GFI breaker and at first I couldn't get it to the OFF position. Finally went after a few pushes. Switched it to ON and nothing, would not stay in the ON position at all...



Of course I'm doing this late night as I cant sleep and cant take the fan apart until tomorrow when Ill have some light in that room, but when I do what should I be looking for?



Trying to figure out if it could be the fan/light wiring (maybe something became disconnected) or could the breaker be bad?



Thanks!

GFI breaker tripped when installing ceiling fan and won't reset

archway ugly

i have an archway between my dining room and living room that's 9.5 feet wide. there are two 4x4 post on each side coming in about two feet. i would like to remove these as i think they were added to look like columns and not for support. i have checked and there is a 10 in. beam spanning the full width of the opening. it is a load bearing wall as the ceiling rafters and the floor joist end after crossing the wall. there are 1x6's at the top and bottom of the post the bottom one is on top of the flooring and the top ones are on top of the plaster. the house was built in 1924. any help would be greatly appreciated.

archway ugly

Stephill Generator SE4000DL No Output on 110v but has 220v Output Fine!

Hiya



I am new to the forum so hello and i hoping that someone might be able to point in the right direction please!



This is the model of Generator i have

SE4000DL 4.0kVA / 3.2KW / LOMBARDINI 15LD 350



I dont believe the alternator is burnt out as i have the 220v working just fine.

If the 110v was the only voltage i believe the motor could potentially be burnt out if i am corrcet?



I am correct in assuming that the 2 phases or sides of the winding work in series to produce the 220v output and work independently to produce 110v?





The trip switches seem to be ok and theres no evidence of overheating or burnt wires. I will check the capacitors but not sure this will help much if the 220v its working ok.



After this my knowledge is limited and only believe theres the rotating diodes that could be the symptom.



Please help



Bumpy!

Stephill Generator SE4000DL No Output on 110v but has 220v Output Fine!

samedi 28 mars 2015

office berber

I need a piece of that blue ish grey low cropped office carpet,Berber??? in a size 15 x 15 and a closet

neck piece about 12x 2. I would like have it all in 1 piece . Can HD cut this for me at the store and

will they get it exact??? Would they have this stuff in stock?? about how much for this$$ ??

office berber

Help! Well not pumping. Wife not happy!

I have an 85 foot well with water at 18 feet and a submersible pump at 40' with a 4" inch pvc casing. My motor is a 1 hp and I had an 18 gpm Goulds pump. One morning we had no water. Checked everything up top and fine. Could hear the motor running so pulled the pump and motor to take a look. Had some iron bacteria buildup on intake screens so cleaned all that. Motor shaft was turning when tested so sent pump and motor back down for a test. No water. Pulled pump and motor back out and separated pump from motor. Powered the motor and she seemed to run fine. Shaft turned and she purred nicely. Couldn't seem to take pump apart to check but decided the pump must be bad. Ordered another one. Installed today. Fired her up. No water!



Ok. I admit. I didn't read the manual. But I'm thinking it should have worked. Could it be that the motor is indeed bad? There is a backflow preventer near the top just under the seal. Possible that the backflow is stuck closed somehow and my original pump wasn't the problem? Didn't check the pipe. Could it be clogged with iron buildup? Flow had been a bit on the weak side.



Feeling like and idiot and I think my wife agrees.



Any suggestions for what to check?

Help! Well not pumping. Wife not happy!

Advice on new furnace and AC unit

I was consulted by a project manager of Central Cooling and Heating up here in the northeast (MA), and he told me to get the following for my roughly 1900-2000 sq foot home. Do you think the below items are appropriate given the size of my home? Since I am a new homeowner, I would like any and all advice. Apparently, the units I have now are quite old, from 1992-1995 and too big for my house (existing furnace has 6 burners)...



Furnace - Carrier 80K BTU Modulating Gas Furnace

AC - Carrier 3 Ton 17 SEER 2-Stage condenser with 410a refrigerant



I have a proposal from him and he said he will do a heat loss manual J calculation before proceeding. He will also help with the rebate forms from my energy companies.



Thanks

Advice on new furnace and AC unit

4 inch Christmas Tree trunk

we saved the trunk from a 4 inch Christmas tree...would like to saw some pieces about 1/2 inch thick to use as a coaster. Would this work or will the wood crack?



Appreciate any ideas.



Harlan

4 inch Christmas Tree trunk

Patio paver sub-base

Hi all, I have a quick question about the materials used for the sub-base of a paver patio. I have access to a large amount of white decorative stone that is about 3/4 to an inch. I was wondering if that could be used instead of gravel. I was thinking of tamping it down and then laying sand on top to fill any gaps. Good idea or bad idea? Thanks for any info.

Patio paver sub-base

Adding a 4229 to a vista 20p

Hi!!

I just moved and my new house has a Vista 20p. All the front doors are under 1 zone and back doors on another zone. The same happen with all the windows. I would like to separate all the doors and some of the windows for my control4 system (i have a vista icm already installed).

I got a 4229 zone expander but need help installing it. I been reading a lot trying to understand what to do. Right now theres only 1 resistor on the zone1 wiring (front doors). I have a 6150, the installer code and the programming manual.

I need to install the 4229 and program the zones. I have added sensors on my previous alarm but all of them were wireless.

Where do i start

Adding a 4229 to a vista 20p

Night Arming DSC 1616 -Simple Question

Hello Everyone,



It's my first time posting here but I used this site a lot in getting my new alarm setup. One thing I searched for and believe I followed all the directions correctly in setting up is the night arm feature. My system is pretty simple



Z1-Garage Door

Z2-Front Door

Z3-Patio Door

Z4-Living Room Motion

Z5-Basment Motion



So in regular "Stay" Mode I want all interior motion shut off and then when in "Night Arm" I want the basement motion turned back on but living room motion turned off as I might come down at night to get a glass of water or something. Anyways my zone programming was as follows



[*8][5555][001][01][01][03][37][05]##



After that I armed the system in "Stay" mode and then push *1 to enable night arm but it doesn't appear to be activing. According to the manual a crescent moon should show up in the top right corner of my RFK5501 keypad indicating night arm is enable but that does not happen it just beeps and nothing changes on the LCD.



I'm sure it's something really simple that I'm missing but any help would be appreciated as this is driving me crazy.



Thanks!

Night Arming DSC 1616 -Simple Question

replace federal pacific 100 amp panel?

Has not been recalled. My service is only 60 amps and that serves my needs.

I was thinking of getting 200 amp panel for social status and mire room

For wires inside panel. My current 100 amp panel though is smaller in size than the newer panels so wall would need demolishing. All the breakers are old enough ti need replacing.

replace federal pacific 100 amp panel?

Came up short.

What should I do to bridge this gap?



http://ift.tt/1Np3KRw

Came up short.

Replace rotting wood under door?

I know it's a long shot, but is it possible to repair the wood under my exterior door, without removing the whole door and frame? See photos. (I placed the expanding foam in there for temporary relief of bugs). Any suggestions would be appreciated...thanks!






Replace rotting wood under door?

Fixing insulation problem in existing walls and hard to access spaces

Hi All,



I live in Chicago area and winter here is pretty cold. I got an old house and I have been working to try to make it more efficient. I added insulation to the attic and in any place I can think off. Still, I seem to have insulation problems in the walls. The is cold air coming from all outlets on exterior walls. I tried using spray foam around the outlet and it seems to have helped a bit but still cold air comes from it.



I have done some small repairs to the wall and I see there is some fiberglass insulation batts but I am guessing they are old and probably damaged due to weather.



So anyway... Here are my questions.. .



1. How can I insulate attic very hard to reach spaces? Some kind of foam with some hose extensions???



2. Best way to add more insulation to the wall without ripping them out (and hopefully suitable for a DIY project). I researched and found options like Injection, foam spray with extension hose but there seems to be contradictory opinions about it. I know there is probably not a definite answer but any suggestion with tips and pointers (or links) to specific products I can buy would do it.



Note that the walls are not empty hollow, they do have some insulation already, so blowing don't seem like an option.



Thanks in advance for any hint/tip :thumbup:

Fixing insulation problem in existing walls and hard to access spaces

Toilet Bowl leak - loosing my mind

I have a powder room toilet which worked fine for 5 years. New contractor install 5 years ago. Then one day we noticed it was leaking from under the bowl.



I replaced the wax ring with one which has the 'funnel' built into it. It was fine for 3 or 4 days, then I see it leaking again.



Next changed the wax ring to one of these fancy 10 dollar rings. Again, ok for about a week, then we see it leaking. No wetness from the supply line or from the tank. Its clearly leaking from underneath. Floor is wet, but nothing above.



So now, I assume the toilet got some kind of microscopic crack. Replaced the whole toilet.



Used a plain wax ring, no funnel, extra thick. No leaks for 3 months, now today its leaking again.



What is going on???? I can accept that the first time I changed the ring, maybe I didn't do it right, but if it was poor installation I would expect to see water within a day, not completely dry for months, then a leak. And the 10 dollar ring was really a no brainer, it was nearly impossible to install that one wrong.



What am I missing? This doesn't seem like rocket science.

Appreciate any thoughts.

Toilet Bowl leak - loosing my mind

Irrigation Pump For PressureWasher?

Hello Everyone:

I have an irrigation pump(Gould GT10) that is used for watering my lawn with ground water. I was wondering if I could use ground water(via the sprinkler pump) to pump the ground water to my pressure washer for roof cleaning? The pump is a 1HP single phase. I guess my question simply is: can this pump be run continuously without burning the pump out for any period of time? Plus, I can't figure out if it would be cheaper to run the pump(electricity wise) than using city water without the pump? Many thanks: Don

Irrigation Pump For PressureWasher?

Groundwater In Pressure Washer?

Hello Everyone:

I have a Generac 2700 psi pw. I live in N.E. florida and city water is very expensive here. I was considering using my ground water to power wash my roof. Would I be harming the pw in any way if I did use the ground water. I assume it would not harm it if after I flushed the pw out with city water? Any opinions? Many thanks: Don

Groundwater In Pressure Washer?

Whistling Shower Head

I installed this shower head about a year ago and it always whistled. I have about 30 lbs. of pressure and using a mix of hot and cold water. I just discovered, by accident, that if I run the hot water in the kitchen or bathroom sink, while the shower is on, the whistling stops. Any ideas? Thanks for your help.

Whistling Shower Head

Self Closing Interior door hinge

I have a five year old house; it has a central hallway, at the end a bathroom. The doors use standard 5/8” 3.5” residential hinges.



As the bath doorway is at the end of the hall I try to keep it closed (esthetic purpose).



I am looking for a soft closing hinge to replace the bathroom door hinge(s) so the door remains closed.



I have tried the closers that are a spring on the hinge pin, and find then to be too “strong” and not slow closing.



Can you make any suggestions for a slow, self closing hinge to use?



Thank you in advance

Self Closing Interior door hinge

Halogen Light Flicker

thanks for any reply in advance. I currently have a project that im commisioning. There are many low voltage halogen lights (Osram 50W) with Osram ETA-60 phase cut dimmable electronic Tranformers. Say we have about 6 circuits with an average 10-12 such lights per circuit. When they are dimmed lesser than 50 % the entire lights start to flicker. Other Halogen lights in the same circuit also begin to flicker. Could anyone sense the problem here. Are too many electronic drivers causing the problem?



Any suggestion is appreciated.

Halogen Light Flicker

Removing "Ads by Salus"

This is the second time in two years I picked up some crap from a Firefox update. The page came up and said "loading updates" or something like that. Then an hour or two later I saw it again. I believe I clicked on the same thing twice. Now I have ads above the page and on the left.



Ad Blocker helps but slows the page loads to a crawl. I've tried every remedy I found on the net. This "bug" affects all three browsers just about the same.



I have Malaware pro which removed some things but didn't cure the problem.



I'm running microsoft security essentials which hasn't said a peep or picked up anything during a scan.



ADWcleaner, AVg, and a couple of others.



I keep seeing "powered by Salus" and "ads by Salus".



The biggest pain is when I click on the screen.... a new page will open for an ad.



Anyone fought this and one ? :wall::madhell:

Removing "Ads by Salus"

vendredi 27 mars 2015

Leach field failure?

Let me start by saying this forum has been very informative! My situation is a but unique and I will explain. My current system is:

2 compartment 750 gallon conventional septic

120ft of lateral field

Cleanout on exit side of tank leading to lateral field

The system was installed in 1996

3 bedroom / 2 bath 1400 sq ft house.



About two months ago we had a really hard rain system move through and I noticed that water was coming out of my lateral side cleanout pipe. I had the tank pumped and found that the system had most likely never been pumped. While the gentleman was pumping the tank water was running into the tank from the lateral field. Thinking it was some sort of blockage, I snaked the lateral lines and pulled out some roots. Because of this I decided that I with the help of a master plumber friend of mine would replace the entire field to include the sand/rock material in the field. I had the tank pumped again and shut off the water to my house to let the field dry out.



We began excavation and pulled out all the old material as far as we could go which was several feet. I had multiple loads of washed rock and multiple loads of sand dumped and I also bought 350ft of geotextile fabric and the piping. We layed about 7inches of rock in both trenches layed the geotextile fabric in the trenches and shot in the pipe level with an engineer level covered it with another 6 inches of rock wrapped the fabric over the rock to prevent roots and put the sand on top.



The septic is draining perfectly fine into the field but I have run into the same issue where the field fills up with water and back into my cleanout. So I'm thinking wow 4k wasted replacing the field. It took about a month for the field to fill back up. So I cut out my shower and my washing machine from the septic and re directed the grey water. I established the rules in my house to let the yellow mellow and only flush solids. That's been for about 2 weeks now. The water level dropped in the cleanout pipe but then in rained for two days straight and it filled back up again. We have continued to baby the system and I'd say in the past two weeks have only flushed the toilet 10 times. The water has gone down in the cleanout but I dug out several areas of the field 1. To make sure I was getting even distribution and 2. To see what was happening out in the field. Well I can confirm I still have 120ft of pipe underwater. My only conclusion now is that I have a potential biomat issue. And the water is not percolating into the ground anymore. Looking for some advice as I have made several calls to septic companies in the area and they are not allowed to work on old conventional systems and recommended a new aerobic system.



I absolutely am in no position to drop that kind of cash because I dont have it. I have read about the oxyclean sodium per carbonate method to help with the biomat issue. Has anyone had any success with that? I have also read about installing an aerator into the tank. Should I do both or should I do the oxyclean and then just shock the system with anaerobic bacteria? Should I pump the tank before I do the oxyclean as to allow me a good bit of time before water is re introduced into the field? I will post some pictures of everything when I get home. Appreciate any advice on this!

Leach field failure?

baseboard heater wiring?

I have three heaters on 20 amp double pole breaker. I noticed that one cable going to one heater was 14/2 wire, carrying l1 and l2 for 245 volts. A second cable (12/2) comes in at other end of heater and carries maybe l2 and maybe neutral. (neutral reads 12v when connected to either l1 or l2 of other cable coming into other end of heater)



The three heaters are connected. Heater says 17 amp 120/277 volt. I assume 17 amps would be total amps for all three heaters? Im also worried about 14/2 wire.

baseboard heater wiring?

How to get 120V from 240V

I have a pump house about 50 feet from anyplace. This is at least 16 years old, predating my purchase of the property. It has a Square D HOM612L100F Homeline™ Fixed Main Lug Load Center. It serves (2) 2HP water pumps for irrigation at 240V. The power comes in via a 2 wire + ground cable. The power tests at 240V. I need to add a 120V outlet at the site. I was expecting 2 hot wires but there is only one black. So... What the heck does it take to get 120V or is it even possible? Thanks for your continuing wisdom.

How to get 120V from 240V

need help and ideas for building cabinetry in cargo trailer

I'm looking for ideas on building some shelves in my cargo trailer. It has a v-nose and the space isn't very practical for what I do. I'd like to fill the area with shelves and seal it off with some doors.

need help and ideas for building cabinetry in cargo trailer

Painting 35 year old bsmt floor.

I have paint the bsmt in the past.The first coat was oil base back then. Most of it came up a few years later.Usually after 5-8 yeas the latex paint starts to crack and peel.I then try and scrape as much as I can and re paint with latex. So,I'm doing it again.The water heater started to leak a few months a go and of course the paint started to come up . The top layer of the floor has come up in many parts of the concrete floor. A number of parts are sandy (old stuff). What would be the best why to paint.



PS:The bsmt has never flooded or filled with water. It does get damp in the summer and I run dehumidifier.Never had water problem

Painting 35 year old bsmt floor.

Is this metal washer necessary (doing an oil change)?

Hi guys,



I usually buy Wix branded oil filters and have been doing my own oil changes for a while. For the first time, I bought a Toyota OEM filter for my Corolla. But I noticed that the dealership included this metal washer for my drain plug:







Is this piece necessary? Because my existing oil drain plug seems to hold up just fine without it.

Is this metal washer necessary (doing an oil change)?

Converting to PEX (before planned)

Last month the heat went out at my cottage and riddled my copper plumbing with holes. I had planned to convert to PEX when I refurbed the inside in a year or 2 but I guess I should do it now considering PEX's resistance to freeze bursting. The original plan was to run copper to supply the manifolds but now I'm leaning towards PEX everywhere I can. Would 3/4" to the manifolds be adequate for a 1-bath cottage with a shower (no tub)? I'm seeing more manifolds with 1" supply than 3/4"--are the manifolds lossy and I should run 1" PEX from the pump (3/4 outlet) to the manifold, or is that overkill? Most the online advice I see assumes a larger home (so does store stock, apparently).




Converting to PEX (before planned)

malware and anti virus programs experiences

Appreciate any experiences, comparisons or views on Avast free version versus Malwarebytes Anti Malware, Windows Security Alerts or others? Using expensive preloaded program on pc, its going away soon and need a good replacement.



Any help. comments appreciated

malware and anti virus programs experiences

Strengthen Garage ceiling

Strengthen Garage ceiling

Hello my house was built in 1965 or so has a garage which is attached. I was planning on installing some ceiling storage with two 4'x8' safe racks. I realized that my garage does not have ceiling joist which is needed to mount the brackets of the racks. Instead it has rafter ties which are spaced out at 48' oc. I do not belive that these rafter ties would not be able to support the racks and the weight they would carry at least the way are at the moment. So I did some research and found that my one opton would be to add additional rafter ties every 8-16" to strengthen the ceiling which does not out any additional weight upon the ceiling and allow me to install the safe racks. Just wanted to get some input on if this would be correct and opinions on this. Also if I did add the rafter ties would I be nailing them to the rafters? Or the headers?

Strengthen Garage ceiling

Ticket rewrites? Dismissed case.

I see no one really uses this board so I hope someone sees this. I was in an accident and sited. A truck pulled out in front of me and I t boned him. He had a stop sign I did not. I was given a ticket for "failure to control" only I never left my lane so technically I controlled my vehicle just fine and the prosecutor knew this and dismissed the case when I fought the ticket. almost 60 days has gone by and I get a call from the officer who wrote the ticket saying "I was asked by the courts to rewrite your ticket with the infraction "reckless driving" (there is a witness to the accident saying I was going to fast in that area) anyway the cop wants me to come in and sign and pick up my new ticket. Is this legal? for a ticket to be dismissed then rewritten. BTW the original accident date was 8 months ago but it was just dismissed 60 days ago.

Ticket rewrites? Dismissed case.

jeudi 26 mars 2015

Cat6 + Low Voltage Wires (24Volts DC) underground

Hello,

I am planning on digging a small relatively narrow low depth trench to lay down pvc conduit which will then carry cat6 ethernet cable and low voltage wires connecting a small solar panel array in my garage to the house and connecting both the house and the garage through ethernet cables.



Likely deeper around thepath there is a gas line connecting the garage to the house natural gas supply, so yeah I plan on being very careful; but this path is the short and straight path linking the garage to the house and also both ends of the path have cavities in the wall which then work as point of entrance for the cables and wires. So, I was wondering how deep would it be practical to dig mostly for aesthetic purposes (hide the cable and wires from view and protect them) and also to avoid any issues with the growth of the lawn (roots)?



Below is a pic depict some initial work done so far:




Cat6 + Low Voltage Wires (24Volts DC) underground

DSC 832 Sync Problem

I had to replace a wireless window contact with a new a 900MHz WLS907. The question is: How do I sync it with the LED Key Pad? The issue that I'm having is that every other day the key pad sounds as if someone has opened a door or window but there's no trouble light indicating a problem. On two occasions I set the alarm and when I got home the memory on the key pad was lit. When I press the code to see where the breach was it indicates that it was at the window where the new WLS907 was installed, but the window was not opened! I'm guessing it's a sync problem. New batteries were installed by the way and a new magnet as well. Any ideas or recommendations.

DSC 832 Sync Problem

Tracking down a short

I'm waiting for my local electrician to call me (probably tomorrow; I left a voicemail saying it wasn't an emergency), but thought I'd see what you guys might think of this.

We've got one 15A breaker that tripped and won't reset. After being shut off and then back on, it hums for a second or two, and trips again. One weird thing is that twice after trying to reset it (all wall switches on the circuit off and everything [ AFAIK ] unplugged), it seems to have made two other breakers shut off. (Not center/tripped position, "OFF off.") :confused:



The home is a circa-2000 double-wide on a full basement. The original breaker panel is by the side door. In 2009, we had a generator installed, and the transfer panel for that is in the basement. The breaker that was tripped (now left off) is on that panel. The circuit is for two bedrooms and a "hall" bath at one end of the house; the den; and one wall outlet in the living room (which backs up to the "hall" bath), and the ceiling lights in those rooms. The overhead light for the basement stairs is on that circuit, as is the ceiling light in the closet of the master bedroom. The basement stairs are closer to everything else, but the master BR and bath are at the opposite end of the house. (For reference, panels are "east end," most of the stuff on the dead circuit is "west end.") Oh, yeah; there's an outdoor outlet that's on the "hall" bathroom's outer wall. That was one of the first things I unplugged. (Had an extension cord out to my truck in case I needed to charge its battery.)



We had a rough winter, with some roof leaks, so I suspect it's something overhead. My prime suspect was the GFI/GFCI in the hall bath, which also controls the outdoor outlet, but it never tripped.



Questions/observations so far?

Tracking down a short

23 W Fluorescent Bulb Acting Weird...

I recently replaced a standard 40W incandescent bulb that just blew after 2 years in a globe fixture with a 23W fluorescent bulb that gives off the equivalent of 100W.



Two days later at about 5:30am, O put the light on and *poof* - the brand new bulb blew. I mentioned it to my wife later and she said it happened to her about 3 hours after it happened to me, which would mean about 8:30am. Of course, that means it did not really blow out.



We has this discussion around noon and the switch was still in the on position, so I went over and tried shutting it off and putting it back on. Nothing. I left the switch in the off position for a half hour or so, and then put it on and it came on like nothing was wrong.



Since that happened, I tried it repeatedly and it worked each time and it is working great now. I put the times because the house temperature may have varied from 60 to 70 degrees during that time. I do not want to rule anything out at this point.



The bulb is the one shown in this link, which of course, is discontinued.



The specifications say it is ideal for ceiling fixtures, and I bought a 4 pack for my basement lights, and when the incandescent one blew, I figured I would give it a try.



I got back up and screwed it in a little tighter, but is was working again before I did that.



Any ideas?

23 W Fluorescent Bulb Acting Weird...

atlas stone

I am making an atlas stone and I have a bag of maximizer, but I have heard that a lot of people use quickrete. Is there any big difference between the two types that would affect the resulting stone?(weight, finished texture, strength)

atlas stone

poulan 2025 chainsaw

So, buddy of mine has a poulan 2025 chainsaw, sat for a year, won't start. LONG story short....replaced the cracked fuel lines, air filter, spark plug (gapped at 25 thousandths as required) fuel filter, and the carb since it was so cheap, fresh gas 40:1 as required. Starts (sometimes) and dies, sometimes starts and idles, dies when pulling trigger, couple times it would rev up and run, ready to go, then just dies. The compression is at a healthy 110psi. Im at a loss, any help? I have tried to adjust the carb, turning the high and low in till it just seats, then start with one full turn out on each, but never can really get it to stay running long enough to work on the adjustments. I know its a cheap saw, but i only have $30 into it. Any help/advice will be much appreciated!

poulan 2025 chainsaw

GFI required?

My son just bought an older home built in in 1981 in Orlando, Fl. I went through every circuit to correct any "abnormalities" or improper wiring details. I am unclear on one point.



As I understand it, any outlet in a garage should be GFI protected and there is the one that also leads to the two bathrooms for those outlets. Yet, there is a dedicated 20 amp. circuit with a regular outlet that serves just the washing machine, but this is in the garage itself. Should I upgrade the outlet to a 20 amp. GFI? Does the code now require this? Just want to do things the right way. Thanks!

GFI required?

How to compare scanner stats for photos

I want to scan my photos in a quality way. I have a Canon MG6320 printer with scanner. I don't know how to compare this with an Epson V550 photo scanner I am considering. Can anyone advise whether the Epson would be a significant upgrade worth purchasing ($112 refurbished; $170 new). I think the usability of the Epson is better than the Canon, but will it produce better visual results?



The specs for this Canon printer with scanner are:

Scanning Element:Contact Image Sensor (CIS)

Max. Resolutions:Optical:2400 x 4800 dpi; Interpolated:19,200 x 19,200 dpi

Color Depth:48-bit input/24-bit output



The specs for the Epson V550 photo scanner:

Scanner Type: Flatbed color scanner with TPU

Optical Resolution: 6400 dpi with Epson MatrixCCD®

Hardware Resolution: 6400 x 9600 dpi with Micro Step Drive™ technology

Maximum Resolution: 12,800 dpi

Effective Pixels: 54,400 x 74,880 (6400 dpi)

Color Bit Depth: 48-bits per pixel internal / external

Grayscale Bit Depth: 16-bits per pixel internal / external

Optical Density: 3.4 Dmax

Maximum Scan Area: 8.5" x 11.7," TPU 2.7" x 9.5"

Light Source: ReadyScan LED technology



Thanks, I do not know how to evaluate this information.

How to compare scanner stats for photos

Ontario - Rough In Wiring For Inspection

In ontario, will the inspector expect just to see the wiring,boxes,stapling etc ....or, is it OK to wire up the plugs and switches, but leave the devices hanging out ?

Ontario - Rough In Wiring For Inspection

Need help understanding loss of power in a 20-Amp kitchen circuit

A 20-Amp circuit has stopped working. This circuit powers three kitchen wall outlets plus an over-stove vent light and fan. (If there are other things on the circuit, I cannot find them.)



Over the past two years I've replaced a 1000W microwave with a 1250W microwave and more recently replaced a 1000W toaster oven with a new 1500W toaster oven to this circuit. Both are plugged into the same outlet and both have been working fine, though I see now (by virtue of posts I've read on this forum) this is probably too great a load on this circuit. What I don't understand is why this never tripped a circuit breaker. Is it possible this kind of load and use would degrade the circuit over time rather then just tripping the circuit breaker if and when overloaded?



I've replaced all three outlets and tested the circuit breaker (by switching it with a known, good breaker,) all to no avail. I simply cannot find what is causing the loss of power.



I'll be getting voltage testing equipment later today, but in the meantime I'm now inclined to believe the problem may lie somewhere within the light/fan mechanism in the over-stove vent hood.



What I don't understand is, if there is a problem within the light/fan, why is one outlet, which is at the end of the circuit, at least partially functional while no other outlets are? (When I say partially functional: this outlet currently powers a small, $10.00 fluorescent light stick which is mounted nearby over the sink. As mentioned, it plugs into the last outlet on the circuit. If I plug in and turn on (say) a toaster in the same outlet, the light will go out remain and out for several hours. It does finally come back on but I have no control whatsoever of when it will come back on. It seems to have a mind of its own. Can I ask what might be happening to the current and voltage on this circuit to cause this kind of sporadic activity?

Need help understanding loss of power in a 20-Amp kitchen circuit

Home loan and insurance

Hi,



Let me know if there is anyone is looking home loan. We are also into housing loan in Australia.



You may calculate it using our housing loan calculator Australia.



thanks.

Home loan and insurance

Spray heads don't come up.....

I have one zone that doesn't seem to have enough pressure to push the spray heads up. All of the other zones work fine. When the faulty zone is activated, water comes out of each head, but weakly. My first thought is that the valve may need to be repaired or replaced. Not having too much expertise in irrigation matters, I can use some guidance to troubleshoot the problem and fix it........please respond ASAP.....thanks, Buz

Spray heads don't come up.....

How tight can pex be bent?

When transitioning from horizontal to vertical inside a joist or stud bay how tight can pex be bent? Saw this photo when looking for something else and I realized that sometimes it might not be possible to run pex from manifold to fixture without fittings.




How tight can pex be bent?

Tripled 2x6's ok for deck posts instead of 6x6's?

I looked at a house (to possibly buy) and it had a deck (maybe 4' above ground) with posts made from tripled 2x6's instead of 6x6's. The posts are buried in the ground. I thought that 2x pressure treated lumber was not rated for ground contact, so this would be a no-no. Am I right, or is this a common practice?



I checked and the deck was in fact permitted and inspected, but there are other things about the deck that I am sure should have failed inspection (a rim joist spliced with a mending plate that isn't supported by a post, hidden behind a handrail post!!! and the whole thing is several inches out of level) so that doesn't give me great confidence.

Tripled 2x6's ok for deck posts instead of 6x6's?

will any outside ac unit work with my coleman inside part?

ok i have no experience in this stuff whatsoever, but i need to learn and asap lol, i have an 87 mobile home that has had alot of work done to it and the ac system has had the fan motor replaced several times but what all else i dont know, i know that its old and very inefficient compared to newer units, well i fired it up a couple weeks ago for first time since last fall and it kicked the breaker over 3 or 4 times and it did finally get going. i let it run for 15 mins or so and all seemed well. now yesterday i tried again and it tried but it keeps throwing the breaker everytime now.



i really would like to replace it and get a newer unit but i dont want to pay several thousand dollars so i noticed on craigslist there are the outside parts pretty new for around 500-800. one guy has a 4 ton like new rheem for 750 and another guy has a like new 3 ton goodman for 400. my question is this, will those work with my inside coleman part, it is a propane furnace and while old it does work good. am needing advice/council, thats why im here, it will be appreciated!

will any outside ac unit work with my coleman inside part?

What to do with exposed wire on interior garage wall?

Soon to be Ex's house has an exposed Romex cable running up the wall from about 18" off the floor to about 1' from the ceiling. It leads to the outside I'm sure, but I don't know whether it leads from an outside outlet that was tapped to feed a entry light or vice-versa. The first I don't think so, since the light is controlled by original switches, though I never checked to see if the outlet had power with the switch off. It doesn't go to the attic for sure.



Yes, I could do some exploratory surgery (which I should have done a long time ago), but couldn't I just cover it somehow or would that really just draw a home inspectors attention to it? Like he won't see it anyway unless she stacks stuff in that area.



I could probably somehow use wiremold to at least make it look better, but it seems like I've seen some sort of U shaped channel with flanges that can just be screwed over it?



I can get a pic later if needed.

What to do with exposed wire on interior garage wall?

washing machine switching quickly between hot and cold fill

Hi. I have an old Kenmore 80 series toploading washer that I bought refurbished. The hot has always filled a little slower than the cold, as far as I can remember. Yesterday it stopped filling with hot altogether and would do cold instead. Today when I went to start a load it started filing with hot (was on the Hot/Cold setting) but then began switching between hot and cold. I have the cold line split between the washer and the CatGenie (self-cleaning litterbox) and noticed that the switch seemed to coincide with when the CatGenie ran water (the washer switched to hot when the CatGenie ran its cold water).



I am mystified by this. I know next to nothing about washing machines. Is there something about the change in cold water pressure that could be causing this? Why would it happen suddenly? The machines have been set up like this for months, no problems.



I thought at first (before it began doing the switch thing) that maybe I had a clogged inlet screen and was going to investigagte that but haven't yet. Could it be related to that? Or is this likely some sort of electical/switch issue?



Thanks for your help!

washing machine switching quickly between hot and cold fill

mercredi 25 mars 2015

I'm Baaaack...(and going crazy) with another issue on the fridge

Ok, last night, fridge side bulb blew, so got another today. After trying to unscrew it last night, realized the cover would just lift off, so pulled the fridge temp knob and viola..no problem.



Come back with the bulb and try to put the cover and temp knob back on and the knob will only go on if it is lined up at about the off position. Seems like almost 180 out. Didn't notice it when it was delivered, just turned it 1/2 way up and checked the temp. The stat has 2 fingers of different widths and shapes that engage similar grooves in the knob. It can only go on one way. What the heck? Was it replaced and installed wrong maybe? I don't see a way to move the plate that the fingers are a part of.



Oh, and a new freezer thermometer is saying its warmer than I though, but I'll check it in the morning to verify. Could have just been because of opening and closing and turning on and off.



If you have time, could you explain to this poor appliance dumb person (my Dad is probably rolling like a gator right now), does the knob for the fridge do anything other than open a door wider to allow more cold air? I mean, I know it will turn off the comp, if I turn it down. Or does it do both?



Model Hotpoint GSX24GR

I'm Baaaack...(and going crazy) with another issue on the fridge

Roofing

Hey all,

I roofed my house some 23 yrs ago took me 7days in June to rip off gravel and shingle, and that was 6am to 1130am due to heat went back up about 530 or so till just before dark. ThIs included raking up the gravel I shoveled off and taking to dump. I was about 33 yrs old now I'm 56 tender back, weak knee from surgery. I'm willing to take my time and go slow. I cost everything out and comes to about 900.00 not including any deck issues or rental. I have noticed that this house was built in the 60's they used really thin plywood(spongy)and spacing, it's not due to any water damage. I wanna say they used 3/8's





and now it's looking like its time. I am planning to sell this house, I have to leave town on 16th April for a day, which gives me about little over two wks. I might wait till I get back and hoping we dont get the heat wave.



I know this is silly question But more importantly I would like to know what I didn't pay any atten to the 1st time is those lines on the tar paper. I need someone to explain the lines and how they relate to the measurements of applying shingles. Or is it jusT for overlapping measures

The other question best way to get shingles up on the roof. I was thinking just get someone from craigslist a couple hrs to hoist them for 50.00 reliability? Providing the rental isn't more expensive. The other this is my truck was stolen 2 days before Xmas and I have no truck now.. I have two wonderful neighbors they would lend me their trucks one like a brother, the other like a father, this might be what I have to to do although I hate leaning on them.



Single story 4/12 pitch

Ground to roof is 8ft 5"

28 bundles

4 rolls tar paper

Box nails

Maybe a sheet or two just in case is there is any water damage



So I appreciate everyone's thought process and tips



Thanks

Gary

Roofing

Shoudn't Pilot Be Able To...

Shouldn't the pilot of a commercial aircraft be able to unlock the cockpit door from the cabin? http://ift.tt/1IwZrTb

Shoudn't Pilot Be Able To...

outside wire

I need to run an outdoor cable for an outdoor wood stove power supply. it is a short run of about 50 feet, I have enough direct burial 14/2 but I would like to go out through the cement foundation above grade. Would it be alright to use a short piece of steel or plastic conduit (about 24 inches) to protect the wire that would be seen on the outside foundation wall?

outside wire

Riding Mower makes grinding noise when pushing in on the clutch / brake

I have a craftsman 14.5 HP ohv riding mower with a dana model number D4360-140 transaxle. It started making a grinding noise and small vibration, when pushing in on the clutch / brake or releasing it. Fully released there is no noise and fully depressed no noise. I looked a t sears parts center, no parts available on most items. I think this may be just the brake disk, brake puck spacers, or jaw brake. Am I right? or could it be something else?

Riding Mower makes grinding noise when pushing in on the clutch / brake

Shutoffs for shower panel

I am remodeling a bathroom and installing a shower panel instead of the old typical spigot, shower head and control valve.



The panel has 1/2" threaded hose hookups. I would like to put shut-offs because 1) otherwise I'd have to cap them until the panel is hooked up 2) just for convenience if I change it out.



The problem is there is not a lot of room behind the panel to hide regular shutoffs. I am looking for a 1/4 turn, 1/2" copper to 1/2" MIP or just 1/2" to 1/2" sweat and I'll sweat on the MIP. I've searched and can't find anything that looks like it will work. Any ideas?

Shutoffs for shower panel

2008 Yamaha Zuma Losing Power at 15 mph

Hi All,



First post so bear with me.. I'm having issues with my 50 cc 2008 yamaha zuma, it has 1,960 miles on it. I am not the first owner, I bought it off of a friend at around 1,400 to 1,500 miles on it. All of the sudden while riding it today the engine would cut power and start coasting if I pulled the throttle more than half of its full rotation. I find that it happens quicker when I'm riding up a hill. I found that if I fully rev the engine long enough, about 4 to 5 seconds or so the engine completely dies. It doesn't have issues starting back up after that however. I also have to kick-start it to start it up, my solenoid or something is shot, however I purchased it this way and I believe the issue is unrelated. If anyone has any ideas they are greatly appreciated. :)



It appears that I've posted this in Cars, SUVs, Trucks, etc.. Sorry guys.

2008 Yamaha Zuma Losing Power at 15 mph

Culligan Medallist Series 8” Water Softener Programming assistance needed

I have a Culligan Medallist Series 8” Water Softener and need some assistance with programing.



Water testing results

hardness of 9 & iron is 0



2 adults & 2 teenagers

3 full bathrooms



Looking for guidance for the following settings...

1. TOR(time of regen)

2. SLTP(Salt dosage)

3. BUU(backwash time)

4. BR(brine rinse time)

5. CAP(Regeneration Interval-time clock)



Thanks in advance!!!

Culligan Medallist Series 8” Water Softener Programming assistance needed

squeaky osb and radiant heat

When we built our home osb was used on the first floor over hot water radiant heat.during building process floor got wet from rain several times.After finishing house and putting down laminate floor over osb we have had terrible creaky floors.Recently pulled up and found all the nails pulled loose moving up and down.Trying to put deck screws in it to hold down to put more flooring down.I'm afraid with radiant heat and the fact of the floor getting wet before that it will still creak! Should I remove old osb and put down new 3/4" plywood before putting down floor or will it be okay this way with a layer of 1/2" plywood on top of it?

squeaky osb and radiant heat

Secure wire on new box?

So they sell these plastic switch boxes with wings to make it easy to install in the wall... just cut a hole the size of the box, run the wire in the slots and push into the wall... tighten the screws... voila!

How in the heck are you supposed to secure the wire by code if you use these things? You don't have room to get a hammer etc thru the hole you cut for the box??? and esp securing the wire 4 1/2' up the wall if you add an outlet?

Secure wire on new box?

pocket window replacement

I want to replace my old wood windows with the weights with pocket replacements, but I don't want to lose anymore window glass area. I have 3 sets of 3 double hungs (22x60). Each set of 3 is divided by two columns where the weights are located. Would I be able to get a larger pocket replacement and build out the frame where the weight columns are so that my window area is the same. I hope this makes sense, any ideas would be helpful.



Thanks

Brian

pocket window replacement

Norcold DE0051 frig works, then not

I have a DE0051 frig that is over 10 years old. Will work just fine, nice and cold on one trip. Then at some random moment, it will start just fine (precooled and all), the motor will just run and run and run, but the inside starts to get warm. When I get home with a warm frig, I sometimes just try it one more time, and it starts working again. When it decides stop cooling, you can hear the motor run for a while, stop for 10 seconds, run some more, repeat. Any guesses??? When it works, it works great, but now we are gun shy because in the middle of a camp out it just randomly will quit cooling but the motor still runs.



thanks

Andrew

Norcold DE0051 frig works, then not

Leak in Masonry Wall or Slab

We have a small leak at our church which we think is in a masonry wall but could be in the underneath slab. Water is seeping out onto the floor along the bottom of the wall.



Are there any DIY epoxy coating products to coat the interior of a galvanized pipe?

Leak in Masonry Wall or Slab

PT cruiser ignition key switch problem

HI all,



I have a 2002 PT cruiser. Over the last 3-4 months I have had an issue with the ignition key. I start the vehicle 3-4 times a day 5 days a week. Over that time period this has happened maybe 6 times so not that often. Basically I would insert key and it was locked and key would not move to acc. position or start vehicle. Each time if wiggled key a bit and/or repositioned steering wheel it would start after several attempts. This morning however, was a bit different and I tried to start and it was again locked. I had my second set of keys and it still didn't work so I think I can rule out a key issue. This time finally after a couple minutes of frantically trying to wiggle/turn key and steering wheel it finally moved and started. I then tried several other starting attempts and it has worked fine. JUst doing a quick search, I See some have reccomended spraying key with WD-40 and inserting it and start a bunch of times. I Was going to try this today while at work. The next thing I see online is a youtube video showing how the ignition cylinder is removed from steering column. basically there is a small hole to go through in column and you turn the key to run and push something through hole to press a button and the cylinder pops out. MY question though is what is the most likely cause of what is happening. IF it is the cylinder itself, and it pops out that easy, can you just pop it out and take it to a locksmith or something to get a new and key to you existing key. or if it isn't he cylinder what is the next most likley thing it could be and what would be involved to change. THx for help

PT cruiser ignition key switch problem

AC kicks on when furnace kicks on with new Honeywell RTH6580wf

I have a gas furnace with central air. Disconnected my old thermostat and hooked up the new one and programmed it and everything. I had to use the blue wire for "C" and made sure the wiring on the thermostat matched the wiring on the furnace.



Before, on the old thermostat when the heater would turn on you could hear it downstairs before the air would start blowing and the AC would not come on. Now the furnace kicks on with no delay and the AC unit outside kicks on as well. After a little bit the AC kicks off and the furnace stays on to blow warm air. I'm stumped on why this is happening. Need some advice.

AC kicks on when furnace kicks on with new Honeywell RTH6580wf

mardi 24 mars 2015

Ademco panel beeping randomly

We moved into our house 2 years ago and it had a alarm system setup that looked out of the 80s. It's says Adecmo on the panel and looks just like this picture :



http://www.home-security-systems-ans...ystems-001.jpg





Long story short, we never got the code to arm the system so we just let it stay there and no issues for 2 years. But in the last 2 weeks, it's just randomly come on beeping on the panel.



We hit OFF and it went off, but 2 weeks later it came on again. The alarm is never on since it says 6/7 fault.



I read some of the other posts on here about another base battery going dead if I understand that correctly, but I have no idea where that would be hooked up.



So 2 questions I have are :



1.Is there a way to find the code or reset the code?

2.Best way to stop the random beeping?

Ademco panel beeping randomly

I misunderstood SmartKey, looking for a solution.

Looking for suggestions on where to go from here.



My story:



Own a house built in the mid 1990s with all door locks keyed to the same key and Weiser brand. Recently had problems with a door knob that the internals that allowed it to open and close failed. Went to the box store and saw "smartkey" kwikset and assumed wrongly that I'd just be able to reset it to my existing key. Doesn't work obviously. Lesson learned. I see Weiser also offers a smartkey but appears to be the same company to some extent now as kwikset. Would a Weiser smartkey lock allow me to rekey with my existing key? Or any suggestion on how I can get a new doorknob that will work with the same key that opens every other lock in the house? New to the world of keys and locks so am hoping for some help. Thanks.

I misunderstood SmartKey, looking for a solution.

Perplexing light switch question

Hi,



I recently moved into a house and am attempting to updated a few light switches. I have a little experience doing this but not much. The switch I am trying to update is a switch that currently has two lights connected to it. I am replacing it with a switch that allows each light to have it's own switch. The current switch only has two black wires.. I am used to seeing black and white wires. The switch that I have has two black screws, two gold screws and a green screw. I am confused about how I can split the lights into the different switches with only two wires.



Thanks for your help!



Ryan

Perplexing light switch question

What bulbs for grow light ??

I need a grow light for my tomatoe and pepper seedlings. Instead of buying a "plant grow light" I've read it's possible to use two fluorescent tubes, one a warm tube and the other a cool tube. Went to Home Depot. The light guy had never heard of doing such a thing.



I purchased Philips Soft White Kitchen and Bath, 32 watts. Description on package: light output 2950 lumens, life 30,000 hours, color rendering index 85, color temperature 3000K. I also purchased Philips Cool White Residential Use, 32 watts. Package description: light output 2875 lumens, life 30,000 hours, color rendering index 82, color temperature 4100K.



Do I have what I need for the total spectrum needed? If not, what should the package description say? thanks

What bulbs for grow light ??

New electric service

I have just purchased a 6 acre piece of land with no buildings. It has electric service to a pole about 100 ft. from the road with a meter. No wiring on the downstream side of the meter. I want to run an underground service in a 3 inch conduit about a quarter mile past the meter to my building site. I will hire an electrician to install a 200 amp service at the new house site. what size wire will I need to run the quarter mile from the meter to the house site? Thanks in advance for any assistance, Morrie

New electric service

Airbus a320

Airbus just put this out last December, kind of scary to me.



12-09-2014



An occurrence was reported where an Airbus A321 aeroplane encountered a blockage of two Angle Of Attack (AOA) probes during climb, leading to activation of the Alpha Protection (Alpha Prot) while the Mach number increased. The flight crew managed to regain full control and the flight landed uneventfully.



When Alpha Prot is activated due to blocked AOA probes, the flight control laws order a continuous nose down pitch rate that, in a worst case scenario, cannot be stopped with backward sidestick inputs, even in the full backward position.



If the Mach number increases during a nose down order, the AOA value of the Alpha Prot will continue to decrease. As a result, the flight control laws will continue to order a nose down pitch rate, even if the speed is above minimum selectable speed, known as VLS.



This condition, if not corrected, could result in loss of control of the aeroplane.



http://ift.tt/1EP0c8W

======================================



Could be just a coincidence but it sure sounds similar to me except for the ending. I'd sure hate to be riding in the pointy end. Terrible. :(

Airbus a320

Blocking mouse entrance

We discovered some mice droppings in our cupboards under the kitchen sink and when we pulled out the dishwasher, we discovered a large opening where the mice were getting in. We have no idea where they are gaining entrance into our structure from the outside but first things first, we need to cover the entrance into the interior of our home.



What would you suggest I put there? A block of wood? Some sort of metal screening? Any help would be appreciated.








Blocking mouse entrance

Mini arc furnace

I've seen Grand Thompson do it in one of his videos and I would like to recreate it, but he is using a modified microwave transformer and I've read that it is not really recommended if you don't know what you are doing.



Link: http://ift.tt/1EOuFE9



What I am looking for is a transformer I could buy that would fit my needs.

I'm living in Canada so if it's simpler for you just tell me the specs of the transformer that i would need and I'll try to find a place where I could get one.



Here's a video on the arc furnace.



Link: http://ift.tt/1EOuDwc

Mini arc furnace

Old MCS receiver problems

I have a MCS series3246 receiver that I had in my shop with 4 speakers. I haven't had it hooked up in a couple years and decided to hook it back up. Works fine with the front speakers, but when I select the remote speaker button for the rear speakers, the fronts cut out, worked fine before. Any ideas?

Old MCS receiver problems

Lights flicker after someone stole outside wiring

Hey guys,



Last night my main break tripped and i couldn't figure out why.

This morning I went I stepped outside, I noticed that someone stole about 15 ft of wiring for my 220v water heater (which is outside the house).



I put some caps on the wires to make sure they don't touch anything but the lights keep flickering HARD inside the house.



What do I do to get rid of the flickering? I won't be using the water heater for a few months so that's not really an issue, I just don't want power surges or something like that.



The wiring for the water heater ran from the outside panel to a subpanel inside the house then back outside.



Thank

Lights flicker after someone stole outside wiring

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