Hello all. My first post. Thanks for having me.
I am working on a 2000 Fleetwood double wide. I had just picked up all new windows that had been special ordered. They have the built in J channel for lap vinyl siding. So I have to remove all the vinyl siding to install the windows..
The windows also have a 2' return on the frames. So I would need to cut back all the drywall in the window returns to be able to fit them in the framed window openings. No big deal and was expected.
I was going to add 3/4" thick 4'x8' sheet of tong n groove insulating board sheathing. They have a R-value of 4.0. I was going to install the insulating boards over the 5/8" 4'x8' sheet material they "Fleetwood"used directly over the framing members at Fleetwood. Then Fleetwood installed the vinyl siding directly over it. I was gong to add house wrap and flashing tape.
I was going to install the r 4.0 rated 4'x8' insulating panels over what it currently has. Followed by the house wrap. Flashing tape on all the windows and door openings. Install all the new windows and get 2 new doors as well.
Well I was looking at ideas online and it got me thinking. Saying how a 2"x6" framed exterior wall is the cats meow for conventional framing on newer mobile homes. This Fleetwood has 2"x4" interior and exterior framed walls.
I was thinking " do to much of this wife says.."what if I added to the wall thickness even more by shooting a 2"x2" directly over the existing framing members? Followed by board or unfaced itch to fill the new walls cavity? Followed by house wrap and flashing tape. Or even did the added 2"x2"wall thickness and filled its cavity and still added the 3/4" tong n groove insulated boards over it all? Again followed by house wrap and flashing tape.
My question would be why is this not a good idea? Again, shooting a 2" x 2" by 8' directly over the wafer board sheathing "not what its called" and shooting the 2'x2" directly over the existing framing members, cutting the 2'x2" over window and doors headers and sills. Making the wall now around 6" thick or deep.
Today I remove the skirting to see if something needs done to help support this added weight of the exterior walls?
I also am wanting to build cement pads for the cement block stands and re-level it all. To be done first. I owned this and rent it to my son. His band member's come and practice at my son's. So the vibration has played hell on the crap ass way that the cement block had been placed on the ground, in loose dirt and sand.. They used like a 2"x2" grid that are around 2'x2'. Placed the cement block directly over this above 1" or so thick plastic grid. Just stacked the cement blocks 5 high with a 2"x6" PT cap, followed by shims. The home is on sand, loose dirt. Every year I have to get under it with my mini sledge to hammer the now loose shims to level it. Not really leveling it all. Just filling the gaps. I look down the roof line and see the waves in it. Look down the horizontal siding and see the waves. Have done construction for almost 30 years now and a wave on what it to be a straight line just drives me nuts! Not to mention a out of level double wide will destroy its self over time!
Any pointers or tips on making platforms for the single cement block stands and double blocks stands? I have a roll of the welded wire mesh that is used in cement pads. I was going to cut to size for each pad platform that I frame. I tend to over kill.
Also Yes my exterior vinyl siding will be to short for starters. By adding almost 4" overall from front to back and side to side. I was going to use the siding from the rear side to help this. And buy new siding for the rear. Seeing as I am sure it has faded since 2000 and new vinyl mixed with old would look like a patch job.
Thanks for any pointers or ideas.
Adding exterior framing members to existing framing on mobile home.
I am working on a 2000 Fleetwood double wide. I had just picked up all new windows that had been special ordered. They have the built in J channel for lap vinyl siding. So I have to remove all the vinyl siding to install the windows..
The windows also have a 2' return on the frames. So I would need to cut back all the drywall in the window returns to be able to fit them in the framed window openings. No big deal and was expected.
I was going to add 3/4" thick 4'x8' sheet of tong n groove insulating board sheathing. They have a R-value of 4.0. I was going to install the insulating boards over the 5/8" 4'x8' sheet material they "Fleetwood"used directly over the framing members at Fleetwood. Then Fleetwood installed the vinyl siding directly over it. I was gong to add house wrap and flashing tape.
I was going to install the r 4.0 rated 4'x8' insulating panels over what it currently has. Followed by the house wrap. Flashing tape on all the windows and door openings. Install all the new windows and get 2 new doors as well.
Well I was looking at ideas online and it got me thinking. Saying how a 2"x6" framed exterior wall is the cats meow for conventional framing on newer mobile homes. This Fleetwood has 2"x4" interior and exterior framed walls.
I was thinking " do to much of this wife says.."what if I added to the wall thickness even more by shooting a 2"x2" directly over the existing framing members? Followed by board or unfaced itch to fill the new walls cavity? Followed by house wrap and flashing tape. Or even did the added 2"x2"wall thickness and filled its cavity and still added the 3/4" tong n groove insulated boards over it all? Again followed by house wrap and flashing tape.
My question would be why is this not a good idea? Again, shooting a 2" x 2" by 8' directly over the wafer board sheathing "not what its called" and shooting the 2'x2" directly over the existing framing members, cutting the 2'x2" over window and doors headers and sills. Making the wall now around 6" thick or deep.
Today I remove the skirting to see if something needs done to help support this added weight of the exterior walls?
I also am wanting to build cement pads for the cement block stands and re-level it all. To be done first. I owned this and rent it to my son. His band member's come and practice at my son's. So the vibration has played hell on the crap ass way that the cement block had been placed on the ground, in loose dirt and sand.. They used like a 2"x2" grid that are around 2'x2'. Placed the cement block directly over this above 1" or so thick plastic grid. Just stacked the cement blocks 5 high with a 2"x6" PT cap, followed by shims. The home is on sand, loose dirt. Every year I have to get under it with my mini sledge to hammer the now loose shims to level it. Not really leveling it all. Just filling the gaps. I look down the roof line and see the waves in it. Look down the horizontal siding and see the waves. Have done construction for almost 30 years now and a wave on what it to be a straight line just drives me nuts! Not to mention a out of level double wide will destroy its self over time!
Any pointers or tips on making platforms for the single cement block stands and double blocks stands? I have a roll of the welded wire mesh that is used in cement pads. I was going to cut to size for each pad platform that I frame. I tend to over kill.
Also Yes my exterior vinyl siding will be to short for starters. By adding almost 4" overall from front to back and side to side. I was going to use the siding from the rear side to help this. And buy new siding for the rear. Seeing as I am sure it has faded since 2000 and new vinyl mixed with old would look like a patch job.
Thanks for any pointers or ideas.
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