Cracks in Chimney Bricks: Repair or Replace?

One of my chimneys was recently repointed. The contractor was supposed to replace any bricks that needed to be replaced down to three courses from the top. When I recently went up on the roof, I discovered that bricks in the second and third courses were not replaced and still have cracks. Photos (with close-up) are below.

Contractor is balking at tearing down the courses (and is not a bad guy, did other work on the house at a decent price)--so I'm wondering whether those bricks actually need to be replaced or whether they can just be filled in. Or maybe there's some other solution.

Thank you very much for any input you can give.

(Not sure if relevant but, the chimney is on an exterior wall. I live in Maryland, so it can get kind of cold and snowy at times.)

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Cracks in Chimney Bricks: Repair or Replace?

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Please help on pressure switch stuck closed

I have a nordyne/fridgidare l1ra 090c-12b furnace. When I turn the heat on the inducer kicks on followed by the igniter which then I hear a clicking noise followed by the igniter turning off and the control board giving me the pressure switch closed error. I have replaced the pressure switch and I am still having the same problem. Once in a while it will fire and heat the house but it very rarely happens? What else could it be other than the pressure switch

Please help on pressure switch stuck closed

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Order of electrical wiring from source to devices

Hi. Greetings to all.

I need to know if is possible or not to wire in this SPECIFIC order: Breaker Source - Receptacle - Switch - Light.

For example: Using a 14/2 Romex I want to know if I can wire (in the same circuit) from a 15Amp Breaker at the Load Center to a Receptacle, then to a Single Pole Switch and finally to the Light?

I know that if that circuit Breaker is turned off then the Light will not have power as the receptacle as well.

However, is this wiring order still possible or not?

Is there any possible consequences like power current drops at the Light when something is plugged in the receptacle, just because the receptacle being powered before the switch/light, or not???

Note: I do not want to have Power Source at the Light; and I do not want to use 3wire and ground cable, but 2wire and ground cable; so technically I am asking if is possible to Mix Receptacles and Switches in the same circuit BUT MORE SPECIFICALLY going from a Receptacle to a Switch and Light???

Thanks a lot.

Order of electrical wiring from source to devices

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Pendant Light fix?!

Hi, new to the forum thanks to this reason.

About 2 years ago purchased Tom Dixon pendant lights from a seller in Hong Kong, needless to say 2 of the lights stopped working thanks to the cheap plastic that held the bulb. Other than that, they look great.

I reached out to a lamp repair place and they want $100 per light to fix (all 3 cost me $100), so before I trash them, I want to see if I can fix'em as I need the light!

Here are some shots:



Any advice?

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Pendant Light fix?!

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Google data base?

Does Google Drive have an equivalent data base to Excel Access or LibreOffice Base database?

Google data base?

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Just change "A" coil

Hi All, if an AC system is replaced with the same capacity (3 ton) can the "A" coil only be replaced instead of the whole Air handler ,which is in great condition,electric heat has never been used.
Thoughts
Geo

Just change "A" coil

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crooked toilet flange

I may have done the dumbest thing in the history of toilet installation. For some reason it never occurred to me to make sure the toilet flange was flush/straight with the wall...as in the way it is now my toilet will be at a 35 degree angle to the wall. It is glued in with PVC glue so I don't think there is any way to remove it. The only thing I can thing of would be to just leave the bolts in the large part of the slot, and use a ton of something like loctite to keep them from coming out. At least then it would be mostly straight. Anyone have better ideas to get me out of this disaster?

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crooked toilet flange

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Laminate countertop miter seam

Does anyone have an idea of what I can use to fill the seam a little better and make it waterproof. The seam is 2 feet away from the sink. How can I protect it from a spill or when cleaning it with a wet rag. The piece were connected with Titebond 3 which is waterproof however this is a small gap, less than 1/32 of an inch. That is the closest I could get them lined up together. I was thinking of just putting a strip of scotch tape? The seam is not really that big or deep to get a product to fill it.
Thanks for any help in advanced
Jay

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Laminate countertop miter seam

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Kinetico quad tank disassembly

I have a Kinetico 4040 quad tank softener system, and would like to change the carbon myself. My top tank is resin, this is an upflow system. I'm familiar with removing and disassembling the head unit. How do I access the lower tank to change the carbon? Does it unscrew? How should I hold the tanks and apply force to unscrew it, since there are no fittings for a wrench to grab?
Will I need to remove the tube in the center, or not touch it?

Kinetico quad tank disassembly

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Fence on a Concrete Grade Beam?

Hi there, new here, so bear with me, hopefully I didn't miss something in my search.

What I'm wanting to do is erect a wooden fence on a small concrete wall. I'd only like it to stick up above the ground about 6 inches, and be at least 10-12 inches into the ground (stop a puppy that has a tendency to dig). It would be about 8 inches wide.

What I don't know, is the specifics. I live in Saskatchewan, and am unsure about depth, or a footing underneath of it due to frost? Would that affect something like this? Or if I reinforce along the length with rebar would I be okay if built to that 10-12" depth on top of crushed stone?

It would obviously have "piers" down 24-36" every 8' at the fence post locations.

Thoughts, concerns, ideas?

Thanks for your help!

Fence on a Concrete Grade Beam?

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in ground sprinkler system basics - what brand do you recommend?

I had a 'pro' install a rainbird 5000 / 1800 in ground sprinkler system. His workmanship was pitiful and I'm wondering as parts break / I need to make changes in his poor design system, should I stay with rainbird or would you recommend another company?

I know growing up, my folks had a rainbird in ground impulse sprayer system on their 1/3 acre lot. it was all metal and don't remember having problems with it (but hey, I was a kid).

now I can't get rainbird customer service on the phone. I've been trying for 3 days and keep getting 'we are real busy, we are hanging up now' messages.

is rainbird riding on their coattails of their reputation from years ago? or am I expecting too much?

in ground sprinkler system basics - what brand do you recommend?

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Ice Dam Membrane on new roof

We live in Massachusetts and had our roof replaced this past September. I was told that the roofer was putting down a 6' wide ice dam membrane but with all the snow we had this winter, I had some pretty bad ice dams and water leaked into the house in four different places. Without ripping up shingles, is there a way to find out if the membrane was actually installed? Thanks for the help!

Ice Dam Membrane on new roof

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Post anchoring epoxy's?

Need to replace a couple post on my 6' wooden privacy fence and wondering if the Sika post mix or Secure Set expanding foam epoxy mixes would work? Not sure if they are rated for high winds, but sure look easy.

Post anchoring epoxy's?

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Charging the AC, how do you know the quantity of freon being added?

This is just an aftermath, but I'm puzzled by what I was told. Had this guy come over for AC check/tune up on a rather chilly day, he measured the pressure of my ancient Rheem system outside, and it was showing around 40-45psi, and he told me the normal should be 65psi. He did admit that the low temperature (it was 50 F that day) will influence the reading as well. He told me he would drop by later and refill it for the cost of material, $65/lbs, and he said I probably would need 2 lbs.

He came by a couple days ago, when temperature was 72 F. The reading actually climbed up to 60 psi, so he refilled it while watching the meter and made sure it was stable at 65-66 psi. Whole process was less than 10 min, and he said it was probably 1 lbs. I did ask why it was not proportional, compensating 20 psi calls for 2 lbs according to him last time, but this was only for 5 psi. But the fact that he kept his word to drop by, not charging another round of labor and seemed to know what he's doing, made me OK with the 1lbs price.

But I'm puzzled, how would you know the quantity of freon that's added? The meter he used only showed pressure, it was all up to him to tell me how much I need.

Thanks a lot.

Charging the AC, how do you know the quantity of freon being added?

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Recessed living room lights on gfi

Finishing my basement and I wired my recessed living room lights off an existing source that turned out to be gfi protected. Is this okay to leave or do I need to rewire? I live in ND fyi.

Recessed living room lights on gfi

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patio cover

I am looking to build a cover over an existing concrete patio. the slab is 10 ft deep and 12 ft long. I am going to tie rafters to a ledger attached to the facia and rest them on a beam between 2 6x6 post set 11 ft apart. rafters will need to span 8 1/2 ft and will be on 16 in centers. my question is size of beam and rafters. I live in Texas , so there is no snow load to consider. It will have 5/8 plywood roof with roll roofing. thanks for your advice.

patio cover

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Can someone ID this part?

Could anyone help identify the manufacturer of this tub handle? Thanks!

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Can someone ID this part?

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Small Flame at Fire Pit

I recently installed a fire pit fueled by natural gas. I have tied into the meter at the house with a 50' 3/8" hose running back to the fire pit. There is about an additional 35' of 3/4" pipe where the hose connects to the fire pit. I am getting very small flame at the fire pit. Any suggestions? Thanks

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Small Flame at Fire Pit

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Wired new outlet box but it blows as soon as I turn the breaker on.

I bought a Leviton Duplex USB charger outlet (model T5832-W) and I wired it the same as the outlet it came from but the breaker blows as soon as I flip the breaker to on. The box has one white wire, a red wire and a black wire and a ground of course. I wired the white to the silver, and the black and the red I wired together to the brass, and broke the tab for a fork terminal as that is the way the old one was, but it isn't working. Any thoughts?

Wired new outlet box but it blows as soon as I turn the breaker on.

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no sweat ... if possible

I am doing a remodel of a 1950's bathroom. I would like to put shutoffs on the sink faucet inlets. Current fitting is a sweated elbow (see pic). I would prefer to avoid sweating the connection so I tried a 3/8 compression valve (pic) but it leaks. I did try to torque is a bit with a wrench but still get a drip. The compression lines do not leak because they have a rubber seal face whereas the fitting does not. What options do I have to avoid sweating on a new elbow? O-ring in the compression fitting, adapter ...? Thanks.

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no sweat ... if possible

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Bicycle Frame

Hi guys,
I wanted to show the change of the frame that I run on my wife's bike.
I'm not an expert welder, but I am quite satisfied, the work performed in about 3 hours.
Look your advice and opinions.

Bicycle Frame

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Wiring in the Garage

I installed a gable fan in the attic last year. I used Romex (12 gauge).

I will be installing a gable fan in the garage this year and I understand that Romex CANNOT be used in the garage unless it is behind drywall.

I will be installing an electrical box on top of the drywall, over an existing box (single receptacle), which I will expand to two receptacles.
Steel City 2-Gang Square Electrical Box-521711234EW-25R - The Home Depot

From there, I think the option will either be conduit or armor cable, connected to this electrical box. Please provide your thoughts or recommendation? I am thinking of using armor cable but is there anything more I need to know? I google "armor cable" and AC and MC came up. Any pointers here would be appreciate it. Conduit in the garage just seems like an overkill.

Thanks

Wiring in the Garage

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Portable DC charger help

I need to create some sort of power source for my Raspberry Pi, it requires a standard DC cable, and what I have got is 4 AA rechargeable batteries that all add up to 24000mah. The device takes 1 watt and in continuous use that would last around 16 hours with the batteries. I need some sort of way to massively extend that time period. I'm new to this sort of thing, so I thought that I could go with some sort of thermal power that is initially powered by the batteries, and then creates more power that would in turn go back into the batteries and power the raspberry pi, this will be incorporated into a plastic casing that will attach to a hard surface, so it can't be very large at all. And solar power isn't much of an option due to lack of sunlight in the area it will be placed and it unreliability to run continuously.

Portable DC charger help

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Trane C Wire

Working on getting a RTH9580WF installed on my Trane AC/Furnace.
There is a terminal labeled C inside the unit and I have a 8 wire thermostat wire.

So I wired the brown wire to the C terminal and proceeded to hook up the new thermostat and got nothing (no power at stat). Broke out the volt meter and with the furnace door switch activated I tested the C terminal in the furnace and got 0 volts. Went down the line and found 26v at the R terminal. Moved my brown wire down to R, tested voltage at the thermostat brown wire and get 26v at all times. Reconnected the new Honeywell and still nothing. I am suspecting a bad unit, but wanted to see what you guys think before I take this one back. I did take my existing plane jane non programmable Honeywell and connected my 26v brown wire to the C terminal in the stat and did not get power there either (it can take batteries) which has me questioning if its a wiring issue or stat issue.
I expected the C terminal in the furnace to be 24v, but I'm not getting it with my volt meter. The R terminal currently has only a water sensor connected to it. Here are the pictures. This picture was taken before I moved the brown wire from C to R.
Edit to add there is a humidifier w/ its own 24v transformer attached to this unit so you will see a few extra tstat wires.

Trane C Wire

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Eliminate pilot lights antique gas stove?

Hello! I am dreaming of cooking on an antique Wedgewood or O'Keefe &Merrit style stove but cannot find an adequate answer to a question regarding the pilot lights.

The kitchen in question is in the California desert and the constant heat of pilot lights would be a SERIOUS drawback to an antique stove. Not only from the unnecessary heat when our temps can rise above 90 degrees for 5 months of the year, but because of the serious fire risk in my area I am just not willing to gamble with. Now it seems easy enough to permanently disable the pilot lights on the stove top (and then use a match to light), and I have found lots of information online about how to do just that. But what about the oven?

I lived in a rental years ago with a beautiful, old O'Keefe and Merrit. Whenever we wanted to use the oven, we turned the oven dial on low and held a match to the nearest side of the gas emitting tube inside the oven to light. This was a "recent" version mind you, mid 50's or so, with no "light here" spot, I think the pilot lights had just been dismantled somehow. If I could call that old landlord and ask how he did it I would. Anyways, that is exactly what I want. NO pilot light, NO safety valve, NO fancy thermocoupling whatever. I suppose that I could turn off the main gas each time I'm done cooking but then wouldn't I have to relight the oven pilot each and every time I want to turn on the gas and boil some water on the stove top to be sure that the oven pilot isn't uselessly (and dangerously) leaking gas? Or turn off the oven pilot light completely, but then turn it back on with a wrench and relight when I want the oven? How in the heck did that landlord make it so?!!

I know that if I find an old enough stove with the "light here" spot in the oven and no pilot at all then no problem, I'm set. But what about the 50's and 60's styles with pilot lights and safety valve's standard? How can I remove or bypass these features? Has anyone done this? If it's not possible or safe, how can I find out which stoves do not include these features to make my craigslist browsing easier?

There are so many antique stoves listed in my area in the $100-$200 range and I'd love to jump on one. But if I can't permanently dismantle the pilot lights it's a deal breaker and I will have to purchase a new, $800 electric starter unit. Bummer.

If it helps to know, my property is in the sticks with an on the porch (glassed in and covered) kitchen and we use large BBQ type propane tanks for gas until we can build a "real" house. Some day. Just my sweetie and me, no kids to bump or fiddle with knobs and inadvertently turn on the gas.
Thanks for the help

Eliminate pilot lights antique gas stove?

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how can i identify wood siding?

I need to replace some siding,so i need to know what it is.
Is there a website or something that can help me?
Or should i just post pics here?
I know it is not asbestos, fiber, composite. Guessing it is not cedar, no smell. Looks like just pine. Do they make them in just pine?
In some spots, the paint has peeled off, but the siding does not appear damaged. Is there a non cedar, wood, weatherproof shingle?
They are machine cut, uniform size.
House is in CT. Built in 1965.
Thanks

how can i identify wood siding?

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transitions?

Laying laminate in 2 room and would like to know if I can just flow it thru the rooms without transitions? I seen people do on youtube but heard you should use transitions. Anybody have any info on this subject? Thanks!

transitions?

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Ceiling fan help??

I just moved into a new home and in the process the ceiling fan remote was thrown away making the whole thing useless. It has five blades, is white, and has three light settings. One for the starting as bottom light turns on, then top and bottom, then just top. Remote also told temperature and had 3 or 4 fan settings. I also can't seem to get the damn thing apart to even check the make number five people have tried to figure it out and we're all confused. The glass is frosted on top and bottom and is quite large. The blades are sandwiched in between the two pieces of frosted glass where the light comes out.

Ceiling fan help??

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sleeve anchor length

hi,

i have a question about the required length when using sleeve anchor

i will be anchoring into bricks, which is around 2.5 inches in height.

Should i get a 3" sleeve anchor, so the "sleeve" will go below the bottom of the brick? Or should i get something like a 1.75" so the sleeve will expand inside the brick itself?

which one makes it tighter?

Thanks.

sleeve anchor length

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Open Ground series of outlets

I plugged in an APC surge protector to one of the outlets and noticed a red light on which says site wiring fault. So I plugged in my outlet tester and got open ground. I opened the outlet and everything looked ok two white wire connected on silver side of the receptacle,two black wires on the brass side and one ground wire on the green screw. I then went upstream and all the outlets in the same circuit had open ground. I checked the other outlets looked ok except for one the electrical box had three different wires coming in. The white,black and ground wires were connected separately and then pig tailed to the receptacle with one wire each. Is this wiring ok? could this type of wiring be the cause of the open ground light? I have attached images of the pigtailed outlet. I also went around the whole house and all the other outlets came up correctly wired. The house was built in 2008 if it matters. Thanks in advance.

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Open Ground series of outlets

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need to pay attention

We went out to eat this evening and my wife wanted to take her car .... I noticed it was low on fuel :rolleyes: Gas prices have been on the upward swing lately but we came upon a station that listed $2.25 per gallon, 10¢ cheaper than most so I stopped to fill her car up. After pumping awhile I noticed the price at the pump was $3.15 :eek: so she only got $20 worth.

I know I should have verified the price before I started pumping but I never expected the price on the sign to be that far off from the price at the pump :wall:

need to pay attention

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Is fiberglass well water tank better?

Hi, We have a Well-x-trol WX-251 tank. It has a lot of rust due to condensation (please see pictures)

http://ift.tt/1bff723

Does it look like it is time to replace the tank? The tank was built in 1997 and installed in 1998. Should we go with a fiberglass tank instead? I was told the fiberglass does not work as well as the Well-x-trol.

Our water is very acidic. We are constantly replacing the copper pipe from the well to the PH balancer due to pin hole leaks. My husband wants to use PEX. I am concern of the chemicals that are leaked into the water. We will be adding a reverse osmosis system. Will that take care of the chemicals from the PEX?

Thanks!

Is fiberglass well water tank better?

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How to remove broken tub drain?

What is the easiest way of removing a bathtub drain with borken cross bars? I tried with a hammer it didn't budge, I then tried to cut a notch in the drain and use a screwdriver as a chisel and knock on it but it still won't budge. I had the plumbing all redone downstairs by a plumber because we are renovating and he redid everything all the way up the the bathub but he reuse the old drain, I wasn't there but I would of told him to replace the drain at the same time but he didn't. So the plumbing underneath the tub is new but the drain is old, what is preventing me from removing it? Is new plumbers plutty that sticky or maybe did he get some abs glue on the threads that's why it is hard to remove?

I attached a few pictures and I also have access to the tub plumbing from underneath.

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How to remove broken tub drain?

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Pipe size for vertical discharge?

for the vertical portion of a sump pump discharge - what's the optimum pipe size for a 4000gph pump (at 10')?

wider pipe allows more peak flow, but also presents more static head pressure against the pump, correct?

once the discharge hits horizontal or downgrade slope wider is better, correct?

the application is a back yard sump to drain the low spot that turns into a large pond during heavy rains. insufficient grade to gravity drain it. will involve pumping up hill about 120', at about 5' elevation change. then downhill 180' at 5' elevation change. plan is to pipe 1.5" uphill then change to 3" pvc for the downhill run, with a cleanout at the transition. I thought about going 2" for the uphill run, but am concerned that will slow down the pump due to excess back pressure.

Pipe size for vertical discharge?

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PT Deck and Railing Screws questions

First time poster.

I just had a 12'x12' pressure treated deck installed with white aluminum railings.

I have two questions.
1) Does the pressure treated wood need to be stained, sealed, protected? (basically have anything done to it to protect it) I also had a PT fence done. (Developer put in a PT post, cedar beam fence in that has not been looked after by them) I live in Calgary, Alberta. There are so many different opinions on this that I've gotten confused on what needs to be done.

2) The contractor installed the railings around the perimeter of the deck. I found that some of the screws ended up very close to the edge of one of the deck boards, causing the board to split in these areas. The split did not go all the way through the board, or along its entire length. Is this something to be concerned about and if so why?

Thank you!

PT Deck and Railing Screws questions

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Retrofit Internet-based self monitoring without a fee?

I have a home with a wired alarm system that hasn't been used for quite some time. I'd like to upgrade it. I'm looking for solutions that would enable me to self monitor the status of the system and receive alerts by email or smartphone app without a monthly fee. Just something basic (zones and armed/disarmed, no cameras). I am not opposed to swapping out the panel and the controls. I've seen envisalink. This is not compatible with my system.

I'd like to find a new panel with support for:

• wired internet connection
• around 50 existing window/door sensors and a couple of existing motion sensors
• alerts: program email settings in the unit or use smartphone app
• no monthly fee
• (optional) touch screen controls

Does such a thing exist?

Retrofit Internet-based self monitoring without a fee?

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Craftsman LT1000 clunks after hitting rock

We have a Craftsman lawn mower LT1000 20HP model 917.271920. It had been running and cutting great.

The operator was riding the mower through a gate from the back yard to behind the fence when he ran into a big flat rock that was sometimes used to hold the gate open.

As he recalls, the blade was not engaged, and only the outside of the deck hit the rock. The blades look fine. However, the engine shut down immediately, and we have not been able to start it again.

When we turn the key, we just hear and feel a single loud thunk -- not just a click. With the transmission engaged (via rod in back), we feel the thunk under the hood and under the seat; when disengaged, only under the hood. The engine does not crank.

We tried to jump with a battery booster, but still only the single thunk.

The following sums up what we know:

• Battery is new and has well over 12V
• We also see 12V at the solenoid and at the starter
• Cable connections look good
• The fuse by the solenoid is good
• We jumped the seat switch to make sure it was not the issue
• The mower deck moves freely up and down
• The mower freewheels, we can push it around

What would you suggest we check next? Thanks in advance!

Craftsman LT1000 clunks after hitting rock

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Wall Painting Colors

Wall Painting Colors - Modern paint colors can update a home and make it feel fresh and new. Sometimes even considering moving when your house is due. If you decide to keep or sell, you should always do your contemporary rooms. Paint is an inexpensive way to bring a new range of color and life to a room.



Neutral paint is popular both in modern and contemporary styles. When you look at modern paintings probably notice brightly colored splashes or range of black and white. Repainting the walls white for a crisp room that will work with your existing furniture. Taupe and pale green can make a bathroom feel like a spa. Chocolate brown is always a dead end, but bold and with personality. The color of the paint of the wall is the background of your space and spice with his artwork, accessories and furniture choices.

Modern decor is to make a dramatic room that is habitable. Create this with bursts of color. Accessorize your room with bold illustrations and ceramics display collections. Orange pillow Add personality to a plain brown or white sofa. Add artwork to the floor with a geometric carpet in daring reds and oranges. A modern works even in an apartment, because it adds personality to the white walls. Choose a bold color for accessories like bright lime green or pink so small objects are not lost in the room. Bring color with accessories means you can easily move. You can even set new accessories for a different look each season.

Wall Painting Colors - The colors of the modern children's room are more sophisticated than the blue paint and base rose. Bright colors can work for children or teens to your paint job will have more longevity. Orange, green and yellow are sexist but also gay. Make sure that the color does not overwhelm the space using parsimony with accessories or bedding. Bright white paneling will tone bold walls and give a feeling of space in the cabin.

For Another Article Information Please CLICK HERE

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Wall Painting Colors

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Wall Painting Ideas for Your Home

Wall Painting Ideas for Your Home - When it comes to interior design of a house, the primary elements are the colors of the walls. However, it can be very difficult to choose the right color for your wall because the options are almost limitless. Read this article to find ideas for the mural to help you choose the colors and other features to create the look you want in your home.



There are three types of colors: cool, soft and warm. Warm colors are red, orange, yellow and combinations thereof, which are all bright hues that will be ideal for the wall. Green, violet and blue are cool colors and can make a small room seem much larger. The soft colors tend to be the most popular colors to paint the walls and publish a larger room.

When selecting colors for your walls ensure that, the colors complement the different pieces furniture. If you are not able to visualize if you choose colors to match your walls and furniture in the balance, all to help the virtual interior painting.

After deciding on the colors of the wall, you have to think about the type of paint to use. Different types of paint give a different feel, texture and finish. Here is some ideas paint the wall:

Final dish Paint: It will not shine and reflect light, and they are easy to maintain. However, they are not durable and washable.

Gloss paint: It will be bright paint but is extremely durable.

Matt paint finish: This has a little shine compared to flat finish paint with some similarities but be semi-washable.

Satin Paint: These have a glossy finish that perfectly reflects the light in the room. A wall painted with this paint is durable and washable. Walls give a soft glow and therefore are not suitable for defects of the wall.

Selecting a painting technique

When you choose the colors and types of paint, you must select the painting technique. All the techniques of painting the walls give a unique look.

Trompe l'oeil: This French word means "fool the eye" but is distinct techniques for painting the walls will need painters who have to add images to the wall that looks real qualities.

Wall Painting Ideas for Your Home - Faux Paint: One of the ideas of the most famous mural, this will help natural elements like wood imitate, marble, granite and more.

For Another Article Information Please CLICK HERE

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Wall Painting Ideas for Your Home

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Help with removing overly heavy wall texture

I just purchased a home that has some pretty heavy wall texture applied to several of the walls. Looks like someone bought one of those texture design rollers from menards, put tons of mud on the wall and went to town! It is so thick it spikes out from the walls at least a 1/2 to 3/4 inch in most areas. It has several coats of paint over it.

I need to know the most effective way to scrape this smooth?? doing it with hand scrapers does not seem doable or desirable. Is there a tool that exists that I could buy or rent to get this accomplished? Anyone else ever dealt with this?

Thank you in advance!

Frank

Help with removing overly heavy wall texture

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Bad ceiling fan wiring?

I want to update my ceiling fan. I uninstalled the old fan. It was controlled by 2 switches. One controlled the light, the other the fan. There are only 3 wires coming out of the ceiling. Black, white, and bare. However, the black wire has white tape on it, the white wire has black tape on it, and the bare ground also has white tape on it. The black wire with white tape was connected to the fan's white wire. The white wire with black tape was connected to the fan's black wire. The bare wire with white tape was connected to the fan's blue wire! The green ground wire from the fan was connected to the fan bracket.

I have a new fan/light with remote. I installed it according to the instructions, ignoring the tape, and using the actual wire color and connecting the bare wire to the fan's ground.

Nothing's working - no power. What to do next?

Bad ceiling fan wiring?

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Duct Design Question

Hi!

I have two bathrooms that are next to each other, and I'm trying to install a bathroom ventilation fan in each. One bathroom needs a 150 CFM fan (which has a 6" duct), and the other a 50 CFM (4" duct). I'd like to have to make only one opening in the roof for the cap, so I'd like to connect the exhaust of the two fans with a y-connector in the attic, and then go through the roof opening.

Is it better to use a 6" roof cap, and a 6"-4"-6" y-connector (6" and 4" into 6")? Or am I better off searching for a 150 CFM fan that also has a 4" duct, so I can connect them with a 4"-4"-4" y-connector and vent it out through a 4" roof opening?

Thank you!

Duct Design Question

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Wiring connections for new bath light

Hi I have an older home (1950s). Am trying to install new bath vanity light(replacing old vanity bar w/4 small bulbs). There is a light switch controlling light . I did not take pic or make diagram of previous connections.I did install an old work electrical box as the other wires were just coming out of hole in wall. Currently, this is what I have: two cables (each has B copper wire and W copper wire.) Also there is a single W wire separate from the others. I'm wondering if that is a ground wire? I have connected all B wires (2 from wall and 1 from new fixture) and did same with the 2 W that were in cable and 1 from new fixture . I attached the fixture ground to single W wire. I can get all 3 bulbs in new fixture to come on, but are not controlled by light switch, and it trips the breaker each time. Thoughts, or do I need to call an electrician. I have been able to determine the one of B wires is hot and other is not. Is the cold B part of switch?

Wiring connections for new bath light

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2 or 3 wire for welding hook up

Hi
I'm going to install a 220 welder which comes with a 250 VAC 3-Prong Plug (6-50p). I need to install the corresponding 3 prong outlet. I know it requires 2 110 volt hot wires and a ground for the third prong (usually the green wire in a stove hookup).
My question is whether I need to pay extra for the 3 wire or can I just use the un-insulated copper ground wire for the third prong (which does indeed require a ground connection) and just buy #6 - 2.

Is the insulation important if the wire is hooked up as a ground?
Thanks

Elliot

2 or 3 wire for welding hook up

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Kitchen Insulation To foam, or not to foam

I had a HUGE draft in this kitchen. I tore the walls out to find...empty cavities across a third of the wall, and 1" fiberglass among the rest of the walls, no wonder I had a draft.

Anyways, see below. The old siding was 1x12. LOTS of gaps for air to move.

http://ift.tt/1bc8rl2

I have been arguing with my self, spray foam vs rock wool. Spray foam is about 4x the price, but I am willing to pay it if it'll make THAT much of a difference.

If I do go the rock wool route, it doesn't have a vapor barrier on it. I have read so much conflicting information on adding a vapor barrier vs not adding one.

Also if I go rock wool, should I seal every single joint I see in the wood? If so, with what? I think the joints are a little excessive to be using gaps and cracks foam for everything.

Thoughts?

Kitchen Insulation To foam, or not to foam

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Help I caused a leak! Understanding my multiple water heater plumbing..

So based on the advice in this thread http://ift.tt/1QGHw1H

I closed the valves and started taking off the supposed vacuum breaker from one the closer tank. When water started coming out. I thought maybe that was normal and that the pressure would quickly go down it didn't.

I also noticed that the cold water in pipe I was going to use for the ice maker was really hot even with the water heater off for a few hours. I then tried to relieve pressure by opening a faucet. Water came out piping hot and the other hot water tank burner kicked on which caused the cold water in pipe on the one I was working on to go cold.

Of course the partially backed out vacuum breaker no longer has sealant on the threads and is slowly leaking :wall:

I realized that I really don't have any idea of what's connected to what and what goes where.

I'm hoping that if I post some pictures maybe someone will recognize the setup or at the very least give me some ideas on tests I can do to try and figure out what's what.

Pictures:

Here are the hot water tanks. The closer one is the one I tried to work on.



Pipes coming out top with valves


Pipes coming out bottom with valves


Close up of top left pipe (same both heaters),

Close up of top right pipe (same both heaters)


Close up of pipes from bottom of heater where it goes into the wall Same both

Extra valve in between heaters near floor


What makes it even more complicated is I don't know whether the cold water where ever it may go in comes from the street, or passes through the two water tanks we have or is connected to both systems.

This is the lower tank with the water which comes from the street coming in from below on the right. The water heaters are just to the left of this picture, could possibly be connected??



Water from that tank is pumped to this tank on the roof from which it goes to most the fixtures through out the house (but not the ones in the back yard, running those will not draw water through the tanks)






1. Does anybody know whats going on with my plumbing?

2. Any ideas for how to test whats going on?

3. Any way to temporarily seal the threads on the vacuum breaker that I started backing out while I can't depressurize the tank?


Thanks in advance.

Help I caused a leak! Understanding my multiple water heater plumbing..

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