vendredi 29 mai 2015

Question on 3 way switch with multiple pot lights

Hi guys,

Trying to understand how to achieve this.Name: Option 5.jpg Views: 2 Size: 41.1 KB

How do I connect multiple pot lights using this configuration?

Power coming through the light with 2 switches.

Thanks.
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Question on 3 way switch with multiple pot lights

testing speaker impedence low ohms

I have a subwoofer in my car stereo system that may be bad or going bad. To find out, the support tech told me I could check impedence with a multimeter, and gave me the spec of .35 ohms as the proper spec for this subwoofer. My multimeter ohms settings ranges are 200, 2000, 20K, and 200K, and 2000K. So it seems with my multimeter I probably cannot measure an accurate readout because the ohm setting doesn't really go down into that low of range?
testing speaker impedence low ohms

Painting or Staining a Maintenance Free Deck

We have a deck that is about 14 years old. Grey color (timber tech) maintenance free where it needs some pressure washing each year.

I would like to change the color to something that matches the stamped concrete.

Is there stain or paint that I could use? Would prefer a stain and possibly a primer first.

This material is a plastic type of composite (not sure). Thank you.
Painting or Staining a Maintenance Free Deck

What type of pumps would be best for this situation?

Brick house built in 1950. The former owners were forced by the FHA to put the hot water heater (which was in the kitchen where our fridge is now, venting through the kitchen ceiling) in the crawlspace dirt basement before the house could be sold to my parents. So, they dug out an area about 15 feet long by 3.5 feet wide and surrounded it with stacked cinderblocks with mortar. It is about 3.5+ feet deep and you can stand up in that dug out area. It is also 3.5+ feet below the outside ground. They put the water heater at the higher end with a slight elevation. At the lower end, they stuck a sump pump randomly on top of the dirt. It wasn't really a "sump".

This is what I am referring to about a dirt bottom and cinderblocks on the sides. The heating and air machine was also installed down there in between the water heater and sump area:

View image: IMG 0891


The water runs in through the cracks in the mortar holding the cinderblocks together, and they also turned a few of the cinderblocks on the very bottom so that the two holes would allow water through. As you can see, there is a lot of "loose" type dirt all the way around this bricked-off area and the whole crawlspace basement is like that in general. Some of that dirt washes into the hole amongst the water coming through the bricks. When you throw in little clumps of dirt, pebbles of cement/mortar, etc., it can be a mess.

This is my mother's home. Being a DIYer, I dug out the sump until I hit rocks too big to move and turned it into this years ago:

View image: IMG 0889

A main pedestal pump that I stabilized with the two boards that were hanging down. I also branched off a battery backup pump in case of power failure. Eventually, the backup pump stopped working after a couple of years. Probably seized due to the dirty water and environment. The main pedestal pump (the one pictured) has lasted about a decade or more, but it was really struggling the other day. Yes, it is an ugly sump and basement. I wanted to make it deeper, but couldn't without a jackhammer.

The other day we had a massive thunderstorm with rain like I have never seen before. It seemed like a cloudburst. About 5+ inches of water in the yards and flowing like a stream from yard to yard, with a foot of water running down the entire road from side to side. I went down to the basement to find the pump on continuously on and looking like this:

View image: flooded

This was a 20-minute thunderstorm that dumped probably 2-3 inches of water. As you can see, the pedestal pump itself barely escaped a watery death. It was 3-4 inches before it would have started going into the motor. The heating/air machine almost got it, as well...it is elevated for that very reason and the water didn't make it up to it. The hot water heater got a few inches of water over the bottom (enough to put it out...haven't tried to restart that yet).

Obviously, this was a high flow of water. We have never seen this much water come from a downpour before. I have pondered some type of submersible pump (but fear it may seize/clog), because the water came within 3 inches or so of overtopping the motor on the pedestal pump. Or a more powerful pedestal pump. The one pictured is a 1/3HP, 2800 GPH @ 5ft head. However, our head is 10ft, so it is probably more like 2,300 GPH and maybe a little less since it is older. That's about 38 GPM and it couldn't handle it and was coming in much faster.

Fortunately, the water subsided slowly and the pump got it all out and eventually back to normal. I thought it wasn't going to make it and that everything would flood. The pump ran for an hour straight and didn't burn out. It pumped it all out and is regularly coming on at about 30 minute intervals now to get rid of the remaining seepage.

Is there a good combo pump of some sort that would be able to handle this dirty water without seizing? A main pump and battery backup is needed. Any suggestions? Also, do most main pump and backup systems share the same pipe for higher flow pumps?

As in...say that both pumps (battery backup and main) ran at once if the main pump got overwhelmed somehow. Would they be trying to cancel one another out or would the force simply combine and shoot the water out faster?

I have read a lot about submersible pumps and issues that people have had with them leaking around the seals or not working after only 2-3 years. A lot of combo units for $300+ come together with the submersible pumps and backup.

Or, I was thinking of something like the Wayne SPV800 Cast Iron Pedestal Pump that would get about 3,800 GPH @ 10ft head and adding my own backup pump (not sure which to get yet) to that. However, instead of the backup being in the sump bottom...probably putting it a little below the top of it to keep it from clogging since the motor isn't very powerful.

It appears that many backup pumps aren't very powerful, being only 12V. The catch-22 is that, like most people, I can't afford a thousand dollar machine and she can't either. I know that they make 24V pumps that use 2 marine batteries, but those seem to go bad every few years and it doesn't seem worth it.

Can anyone give me any advice as to which would be better to get? Cast-iron pedestal like the phone I posted or submersible? I'm planning to elevate either with a concrete slab in the pit, but given all of the dirt and muddy water that runs through, I'm worried about the environment getting to them.

Yes, the runoff and general seepage of the property is an issue. The seepage around the foundation probably needs to be fixed. When she sells the house in the future (as-is), she won't be dealing with it. So I'm looking for something to get her by for 2-3 years until it isn't her problem anymore. It appears that something around or in excess of 4,000GPH is needed. 1/2HP seems to do the trick, instead of the 1/3HP currently.
What type of pumps would be best for this situation?

Entire home circuit not working

I was cutting several slabs of stone for my fireplace using an exterior outlet to power my saw. About 2/3 the way through the cutting, the power ceased. There was no short and blackening of the outlet. I checked my breaker, it was not tripped for this circuit. Still I flipped it off and on for good measure. All other outlets (4 total) associated with this circuit I came to find are not working anymore.

Do I just need to replace the outlet that I was originally plugged into when I had initial issue(are circuits usually wired in series?)?

Could the breaker have gone bad, do I need to replace the circuit breaker?

Thank you for your time.

-Matt
Entire home circuit not working

paint on shower stall wall gets pulled off if shower curtain bar is moved

The photo shows what happens. I made 2 or 3 attempts to repaint the spot but the problem reoccurs. The walls at the top of the stall were originally painted with latex paint of a different color. Later, wallpaper was applied there. And then, later, the wallpaper was removed and the walls were primed and painted with latex paint. Any suggestions?

Name: showerCurtainRod.jpg Views: 0 Size: 10.4 KB
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paint on shower stall wall gets pulled off if shower curtain bar is moved

Exterior door weatherstripping recommendations

I'm looking for recommendations on some exterior door weatherstripping. The house was built in 1937 and currently has the original doors. The weatherstripping right now is metal. I'd like to replace this with something that will function in the winter. I can currently see light from around the door. What kind of weatherstripping should I look for? I saw some vinyl tubing on tack strips to attach to the door. I've also seen vinyl tubing that is actually inserted into grooves in the door jamb. The jambs don't actually have those grooves right now but I assume that I could use a grooving tool, if I could get my hands on one, to install.

Thanks for your time and help.
Exterior door weatherstripping recommendations

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