samedi 28 février 2015

Old ready mix patching plaster

Hi,



I have half a gallon of ACE ready mix patching plaster that is about 2 years old and I need to use some now for a small repair job. But it has dried and become slightly hard. I can still mix it.



Can I add water to it and still use it? Or, wait until I can go and buy a new one?



Thank you.

Old ready mix patching plaster

Painting Furniture

I am painting an older desk and want to put some sort of a protective coating on the main surface of the desk top but I am not sure what to use. Any advice is appreciated.



Thanks,

Painting Furniture

Dedicated Bathroom circuit ?

I have a unfinished upstairs garage apt

Can i run my bathroom outlet and overhead lights on the same circuit as my other outlets (protected by a Gfci) in the main room or do i need the bathroom on its own 20amp breaker



Help me please :)



Thanks for your time



L

Dedicated Bathroom circuit ?

Drilled all the way through my foundation... is that bad?

While drilling for anchors to secure a non-load-bearing wall, I drilled all the way through my foundation. I was surprised to learn it's only 4" thick.



My main question is, is drilling all the way through and filling with anchors going to cause any problems? Do I need to seal it in any way? I don't have any moisture problems in my basement. I'm in Seattle, WA.



Second, is a 4" foundation surprisingly shallow? House was built early 1950's.

Drilled all the way through my foundation... is that bad?

Repairing foundation

My son's house has a combination stone/concrete foundation that is in need of repair. The sewer line, made out of clay tiles, collapsed and washed away some of the dirt that supported some of the foundation wall. The wall has a large chunk of concrete that is still in the foundation, but is loose and cracked all the way around. The dirt below this piece is washed away.



Looking for advice on how to fix? It appears this portion of the wall is about 2' thick at the bottom and tapers to about 1' at the top. The wall is about 3.5' ft tall. We can tell that this loose chunk has been attempted to be patched in place previously.



Good news, it the sewer line has been fixed with 4" PVC successfully. Just need to figure out how/what to do with this washed out area. Almost looks like it needs formed up and a new wall built.



Any help/suggestions/comments welcome.

Repairing foundation

Replacing old switch with dimmer

Ok so this would seem pretty basic but I am looking to replace a light switch with a dimmer switch.



Problem I have is that the dimmer switch has 2 black wires and a green wire coming out of it and the old switch has 3 black wires attached to it.



I am guessing the power is coming to the switch and then going to the light and going to another location as well.



How do I go about wiring this ?



Do I just have to connect 2 of the black wires to one of the wires from the switch ? And if so then how do I know which 2 ?



TIA

Replacing old switch with dimmer

How to cover very faint water stains on a ceiling?

I have a couple of very faint water stains on my kitchen ceiling due to small water damage quite some time ago. We want to put the house on the market so we want to cover these stains up.



I have read around and have seen that I should first use an oil based primer wait for it to dry and then paint over it?



Does it matter what paint I use? And as for the oil based primer, Kilz original will be good enough right?



Thanks for any help in advance!

How to cover very faint water stains on a ceiling?

Ranger American Installed PC1555

My Ranger American installed system (PC1555) chirps. I have verified the outlet to the wart and that the transformer voltage is delivered to the AC input of my panel. I have replaced my backup battery and verified that it holds voltage under load. What do I do next (still chirps)?

Ranger American Installed PC1555

Can I use 10-2 ufg wire to carry 20 amps for 40' ?

I am looking to add another 20 amp breaker circuit to my panel and run it about 40' to supply an 20 amp 110 welder.



Will a 10-2 wire dedicated to one plug on its own breaker run 20 amps without dropping voltage or over heating?



The manual says if using an extension cord to use...



10 awg for -30'

8 for 30'-50'

6 for 50'+



Would what I'm doing be consider a ext cord? from what I read the 10-2 should be good for about 65' at 20 amps

Can I use 10-2 ufg wire to carry 20 amps for 40' ?

Honda Harmony EN2500 Generater

I was using my generator out on the lake while ice fishing and it got to cold and froze and stop running can anyone tell me what happened ? Thanks

Honda Harmony EN2500 Generater

Can I salvage this convection oven?

I bought a used version of this convection oven which the seller used easy-off on. I don't know what kind of easy off he used. The oven has a white powder all over and the metal or whatever was coating the inside and the "metal" has clearly corroded off. The heating elements are also covered by white powder.



Can this be salvaged by turning the oven on and putting it by a window or outside (during a cool, dry day), letting the residue evaporate until the fumes are gone? Or perhaps thouroughly washing it with a damp sponge? The problem is that the more you scrub it, the more of the "metal" comes off. :wall:



I really, really want to recover this thing because it costs $200 that I can't afford to spend.



Thanks

Can I salvage this convection oven?

what size chimney liner?

Hello, I have a gas hot water heater and furnace. They simply exhaust into the brick chimney that is terra-cotta lined. I'm having moisture issues with water dripping from the mortar joints in the cold attic. I'd like to run a liner up my chimney from my gas appliances.



My furnace is 100,000 BTU 80% efficiency. My hot water heater is 40,000 BTUs. I'm under the impression I would need a 5" liner, but then they also sell a 6".



Z-Flex 5 in. X 35 ft. Gas Aluminum Chimney Liner Kit-2GACKIT0535 - The Home Depot



Any and all comments would be appreciated. Thank you for reading.

what size chimney liner?

Another question about unmarked breakers.

Ok, so this rental has no labels or anything for what powers what. I'll eventually get around to checking when it's warmer, but for now what about these big ones.



There are 2 50s and a 30. I found one 50 was for the package unit on the roof...I turned the heat up and then went out and flipped them one at a time til the furnace kicked off.



So now I have a 30 and a 50 to figure out. Like many houses out here appliances are set up for gas or electric. Gas range right now and no dryer yet.



Am I right in thinking the 30 would be for the dryer and the 50 for the range?

Another question about unmarked breakers.

vendredi 27 février 2015

Used Vinyl Fence Creative Install Ideas Needed

Hi all. New to the forum. I'm usually good and figuring this stuff out myself but as I've never installed a fence I need some help.



I purchased about 60' of some vinyl fence for about $75. It a criss cross type pattern and about 40" high in 6' sections. The owner I bought it from could not remove the complete section of the posts from the ground and cut them off about 3" below ground level. The fence is in great shape and I need to install it at the house I'm currently renting. Because I'm renting I'm not going to cement any posts in and the fence is really just to keep my kids and dogs in.



So my question is, how can I install the cut down 5"x5" fence posts? Any ideas?



Thanks

Kellen

Used Vinyl Fence Creative Install Ideas Needed

need some help 1995 ford Taurus stalls after starting

was running great next morning i went to get in and go somewhere and it started but as soon as i gave it some gas it bogs out and stalls. we have checked the fuel filter and the pump seems to be running fine as gas is getting to the engine. it will start and idle for a few it's just when you give it gas it stalls out sometimes it does make a pop sound through the tail pipe. someone told me it might be the catalytic converter but i do not want to buy one and have it put in without really knowing if it's that. any suggestions on what it might be that a grandmother of 50 can do herself. i have tools and am able to get greasy.lol

need some help 1995 ford Taurus stalls after starting

Unusual sliding door problem?

My 06 grand caravan right passenger power door will not open.



If I push the power open button, it will click loudly, more of a clack really. If I pull the handle it will unlatch and open. The same happen when it's open and I try to close it. My first right was that gears are going bad, just what it sounds like. It seems to be something related to the unlatching mechanism.



I have looked online and it seems that the common problem is that the door will not slide. I have not seen this problem online. To be clear, once it unlatches it moves fine.



Any advice is helpful.

Unusual sliding door problem?

low oil pressure light

I have a 2006 Simplicity XL lawn tractor, 27 hp with a Kohler gasoline engine. It's been running very well so far and I even used it a couple weeks ago to move some snow. It has been sitting in my unheated shed since. Today I went out to start it up and even though it started without any trouble it wouldn't stay running. In order to start it the brake pedal must be depressed and normally you just let the pedal go and it stays running, but right now every time I let go of the brake pedal it shuts off. I have plenty of gasoline and the oil looks good but I get a low oil pressure light on the dash. The manual tells me that if that light comes on I should turn it off right away and contact my repair shop, but perhaps someone could tell me the problem or at least give me some ideas. We have had some sub zero temps the past couple weeks here in SE Pa. so perhaps that has something to do with it; I don't know. Thank you very much.



Rich

low oil pressure light

What might cause this? Diff voltages between H,G, N

Replacing some smokes and just verifying what was hot (Yeah, I know, but not a single breaker is labeled and it would have taken me an hour just to find the right one. I undid and reconnected one wire at a time with the wires well separated out of the box.), but the readings kinda confused me. Hot to ground...97.4V. I thought, that can't be right. Different meter, same. Hot to neutral...120.3V, just fine.



What would cause that? Any other time I've measured hot to ground anywhere, it was the same as hot to neutral.



If you remember a prior post, where I said the place was wired by monkeys? I gave them too much credit. House wiring was stripped probably 1 1/4" in all the wirenutted connections. Smoke mounting plates held on with sheetrock screws to the box. Sheetrock screws!!!

What might cause this? Diff voltages between H,G, N

Indirect Water Heater Question

I have a Weil-Mclain Ultra 80 boiler. I am considering adding an indirect water heater. Do I have to get a Weil-Mclain indirect water heater? Or can I go with a different brand?



Thanks in advance!

Indirect Water Heater Question

Strange morning cycling pattern

Heat Pump: Coleman Model HC8B024F4C

Air Handler: Model AHV24B3XH2IC

Thermo: Honeywell VisionPro 8001

House: 1800 sq ft

System installed Nov 2014

State: Washington



Daily set point temp 0530 to 2100 - 68F

Night set point 2100 - 0530 - 63F



Observations:



We see a very consistent pattern of cycling in the morning:



The house comes up to 68 at 0530 with out issue (the thermostat starts the process in time for the house to be at 68F at 0530, works great). This typically takes around 1-1.5 hours. Unit shuts off for 5-7 minutes, then comes on again for 45 minutes to 3 hours, shuts off for 5-7 minutes, then comes on again for 35 minutes to 1.5 hours. The actual duration of the run times are, as you might expect, closely tied to outside temperature but the pattern persists across temperature ranges. After the unit completes the last of these two"extra" cycles it settles into a pattern which I feel is more consistent with maintaining the set point. During this set point maintenance cycling we never see a run time duration as long as even the shortest "extra" one in the morning.



We feel this pattern has occurred since install. To confirm our suspicions I started logging system operations with a data logger about three weeks ago. Our dealer seems unable to explain what is happening during these two "extra" cycles. ("It's a computer thing, too complex to understand.") Right!



Temperature info during logging period:

Outside temperatures at 0500 have averaged about 40F.

The daily mean temperature has been about 45F.



My questions:



In particular I wonder why after bringing the house to the set point at 0530 the unit doesn't immediately go into a cycling pattern to maintain that temperature? Why these two "extra" cycles in the morning?



If anyone can enlighten me I would be grateful.



Wayne

Strange morning cycling pattern

Is there any downside with oversizing duct hoses?

I'm upgrading my entire AC system from condenser to registers.



So is there a problem if I oversize the flex duct lines (assuming the condenser and registers are sized correctly)?

Is there any downside with oversizing duct hoses?

Is there any downside with oversizing duct hoses?

I'm upgrading my entire AC system from condenser to registers.



So is there a problem if I oversize the flex duct lines (assuming the condenser and registers are sized correctly)?

Is there any downside with oversizing duct hoses?

Netflix History

I use a Roku box to get Netflix. I have a large list of Netflix history because I start a movie and then stop it because I do not like it. Every movie I start goes into history.



How can I clear Netflix history?

Netflix History

Should I hang kitchen cabinets on a wall that doesn't reach the ceiling?

A customer wants me to prep a wall in his kitchen to hang cabinets on. It is an L-shape kitchen and the wall is 84" tall. It is in a giant lodge-like room with really high vaulted ceilings. The wall is 13' long and on one end connects to an existing wall (forms a T) and on the other end makes a 90 degree turn. I'm worried about the weight of the uppers on the wall. I don't want the wall to slightly sag over time in towards the kitchen. Any thoughts?

Should I hang kitchen cabinets on a wall that doesn't reach the ceiling?

Low Then regular voltage????

Hi, I have a 2006 Chevy Uplander...runs good. Two nights in a row while I'm driving, the headlights will dim and at the same time the heater fan winds down a bit and the radio cuts out and then it goes back to normal....maybe a half hour later the same thing. Alternator? Any suggestions.

Thanks,

Joe :)

Low Then regular voltage????

Reversing Valve Output

Our old thermostat died and I can't figure out how I should set the "Select Reversing Valve Output". The manual says:

Select Reversing Valve Output – The O/B option is

factory set at “O” position. This will accommodate the

majority of heat pump applications, which require the

changeover relay to be energized in COOL. If the

thermostat you are replacing or the heat pump being

installed with this thermostat requires a “B” terminal, to

energize the changeover relay in HEAT, the O/B option

should be set at “B” position.



We do have the O/B Wire Connected.



Currently it's set to O=On



The HP seems to be working fine, but I am wondering...if this was set wrong, would I get no heat, or just less of it? Any way I can confirm what this should be set to? I have looked in the manual for our air handler, but I don't have a manual for the HP itself.



Thanks,

-Owen

Reversing Valve Output

Low the regular voltage???

Hi, I have a 2006 Chevy Uplander...runs good. Two nights in a row while I'm driving, the headlights will dim and at the same time the heater fan winds down a bit and the radio cuts out and then it goes back to normal....maybe a half hour later the same thing. Alternator? Any suggestions.

Thanks,

Joe :)

Low the regular voltage???

jeudi 26 février 2015

Vent pipe extension n at the roof

Today a customer came in asking for a vent pipe extension. Due to excessive snow build-up on his roof the vent was buried and frosted over and caused a leak within the roof and house walls. He had 2" copper coming through the roof. I did not have anything for him and was at a loss to say if he could even put an extension on it. He wanted to go to ABS or PVC. All I could advise is to go a plumbing house and ask for a threaded coupling to be soldered on to the copper end sticking out of roof and then screwing on a plastic extension. Are there specific remedies for this situation?



Due to this seasons weather pattern this can't be an isolated occurrence.

Vent pipe extension n at the roof

New oil-fired steam boiler is revving and clicking

Hi all -- I have a newly (about 2 months) installed Weil-McLain steam boiler with a Beckett GeniSys 7505 oil burner/controller. When the thermostat reaches the desired temperature, the burner usually spends several minutes making a series of rapid fire revving and clicking sounds. Is this what post-purge sounds like? Is it supposed to last this long, or is something wrong?



If my description is lacking, I'd be happy to post a short video someplace if that would help.



Thanks very much for any insight.

New oil-fired steam boiler is revving and clicking

Start Up Programs

I like to know what programs are running and loading during my start up and I think I have too many right now. Using the Glary utility I have:



Start-up (2) I know them and need them

Scheduled Tasks (18) I know none of them but looks like they all are related to Asus, MS, and Office

Plug-Ins (1) Windows Enhanced Storage Shell extension DLL x64

Application Services (13) I know none but looks like they are related to Asus, Intel, Office

Windows Services (48)



Before I did the windows 8.1 re install, I remember I had the same for start-up and the plug-in but I did not have any under scheduled task or application services



Searching I found information what some of them are for but how do I know if I can remove them? Some are obvious but most are not



Anyone knows a better place to search so I can eliminate what I don’t need?

Start Up Programs

New boiler burner assembly.

The short of the story is that I get a call from my mother last night that her house is cold and the boiler isn't working. She was away for a few days. I go over and try to troubleshoot. The thermostats were calling for heat, the pumps were coming on, the burner was not. I pull the cover off to inspect and found the inside of the boiler to be covered in black soot. I didn't do anything to it. She had already had a a heating guy coming out this morning to do some minor fixes leaking pump flanges and maintenance on the boiler.



The boiler is an HB Smith model g100-w-4 from 1989. It also has a standing pilot.



The boiler guy pretty much had the same reaction I did to the soot. That it wasn't good. I wasn't there, but my mother told me what she knew. The boiler guy said something about having the burner cleaned to get it operational again. He said they don't do that sort of thing and even if you found someone, probably not worth the money. He suggested replacement. I don't know exactly what needs to be cleaned with the burner, but I am thinking that if a replacement can be had, that should do the trick.



I know this isn't good specific information, but does anything have ideas as to what would be clogged on the burner to make it soot? Could a burner replacement possibly work?

New boiler burner assembly.

Drip Edge - Fascia Repair (a few questions)

Hi, I'm about to paint home (mid 50's home). I was inspecting my eaves first and came across afew things I wanted to fix first... had afew questions on best approach.



The main roof is (shingles) tongue/groove wood, which extends to the eaves. The trusses are 2x6, which are visible in north and south sides of home.



There are 3 additions to the home all with flat roof (slight pitch). Plywood roof with 4x6 beams. I'm not sure the material that is used for top covering. I would describe it as something rolled out, with heavy amounts of tar to seal it? Its not a rigged roof, just not sure the material. Seems to be the standard in S.Florida.



1. There are drip edges along the whole house. The main roof has shingles covering the drip edge. Seems clean and secure, no issues there. The flat roof has drip edges, but I'm not sure what is sealing it on top? The drip edges on the flat roof seem to be on top of the roof covering... or par with it at least, then glue/blended with the flat roof material. My question, what should I use to "re-seal" that drip edge? Is it just regular roof cement?



2. I have some fascia boards that need to be replaced. Should I be pulling the drip edges also? Or can I just pop the boards out with the drip edges in tact? The fascia boards are 1x6, with a 1x2 on the very top directly behind drip seal (as a spacer, I assume).



3. On the visible truss beams there are some minor "pockets" from ants/etc that have hollowed behind the paint. I wouldnt consider the damage severe by any means... but I want to address it. I see the previous owner just sanded some areas down then painted, which I also plan to do on the minor areas. On the larger areas I was planning to use some kind of epoxy... then I read that some people use bondo? I'm more comfortable with bondo... is this practical to use? I never would have thought of using it before.



Thanks,

Drip Edge - Fascia Repair (a few questions)

New laptop -W8.1

OK, a lady had a HP laptop with fair credentials for sale through our local yard sale site. 15.6 screen, 500 GB 4 GB ram, but a slower processor. I can live with it for $175. But boy did she load it down with junk. I got it home, installed Malwarebytes, Superspyware, and CCleaner, along with updating Avast, and set them to work. Once I got all the junk deleted, it seems to be fine.



Windows 8.1 is a different animal for sure. Is there any way to rid it of applications I don't want/need? They don't show up on the control panel list of programs to uninstall.

New laptop -W8.1

Air or Ice?

So I have not had heat in my Lower Zone (1st floor) while the 2nd floor Upper Zone heats just fine. This all started about 10 days ago when the temperature dipped to -10, and the thermostat setting goes down to 62 for the nite (I now know not to do this).



Problem is, I cannot find any indication of a frozen spot, plus thought it may have thawed by now. Most of the pipes are in the house, and the crawlspace under the house honestly doesn't seem so cold. I even added heat tape to the longest section of exposed pipe I could find. No change.



I also spent days trying to purge air in case that was it, but again, no luck. The supply side, which splits after the expansion tank but has no other valves or do-hickeys, gets cold in the one pipe after moving horizontally about 6 feet, especially when it goes back down towards the floor (boiler is on the first floor, same that doesn't heat). So more on the setup...



Return has 2 zone valves, which then join to one horizontal pipe which immediately goes down thru a singular purge and balance valve (PB56) and a singular circulator before going into the boiler. When trying to purge air, I have not been able to get the water to circulate thru the loop... I'm convinced it only comes in the left side of the boiler (where the main water supply and drain pipe are, separate from return/supply.. at least externally) and out the house on the purge valve on right (return) side. While the water from the purge pipe under the zone valves starts and eventually gets cold, the temperature of the return and supply pipes does not change what is hot (near the boiler) stays hot, and what is cold several feet away stays cold. This tells me the water is just going thru the boiler, backwards, and not thru the zone loop. I apparently have nothing to force the water the correct way, as the balance part of the PB valve apparently does not keep water from coming thru.



So basically, I still can't tell what my problem is. Anyone know what I can do to narrow it down without a big expense on one thing when it could be the other? Can I try an air purge with the boiler on, since then the circulator would be helpful in pushing the water thru the loop?



I should also add that my pressure gauge is apparently busted, as it is just a nub of a needle that always looks like it's somewhere under 20 from my angle. So when i increase the pressure, I generally just open the pressure regulation valve and wait for the the sound of more water rushing into the system to stop, figuring it must be pretty full.

Air or Ice?

corrosion-proofing battery terminals

Over the years I've seen or tried the sticky red spray, Vaseline, dielectric grease, bearing grease and lately I use a general clear synthetic grease that looks just like Vaseline. I apply it inside & out.



Does it matter -- as long as the connection is sealed from the air?

corrosion-proofing battery terminals

Flews that hit the dew point

I was having a spirited discussion with N J Trooper about his flawed boiler instillation , manual damper in smoke pipe , pipe sizes up and down and to top it all off sulphuric acid running out the smoke pipe , not what I would expect from a seasoned installer and because he has a closed mind he closed the thread. I would like to continue this discussion with anyone with this problem.

Flews that hit the dew point

Body Side Molding Lifting at Each End

2012 Subaru Legacy. One body side molding is beginning to come off about 2" at each end. I would like to repair it without removing the entire molding. Is there an adhesive that I can use? Thanks for your help.

Body Side Molding Lifting at Each End

enough already!

All this snow is getting old! I've lived in north east tenn for 24 yrs and I don't ever remember snow being on the ground for this long [maybe my memory isn't too good :eek::p] The schools have been out for 2 weeks because of the snow. But the kicker was this morning the power went out :mad: I forgot how long it takes to boil water on a wood stove just so you can have a cup of coffee :(

enough already!

Sudden, odd smell throughout house...

Last night, our power flickered a few times (we got dumped on with about 6" of snow). Sometime after that (we're not sure how much time elapsed), my wife had gotten up because she smelled an odor. She got me up and we are both smelling an odor that we can't really describe 100% accurately.



The smell is something like a burnt toast smell, but not quite. It doesn't smell electrical to either of us. It's strong in the dining room/living room, and also in the bonus room above the garage. The bonus room is at the opposite ends of the house as the dining room and "inline" with each other (i.e. they both face the front of the house). We have two small bedrooms downstairs and we do not smell the odor in those rooms either. We initially smelled it in the master bedroom (all bedrooms are downstairs).



We do not smell it coming out of the heating vents. We went outside and smelled around the HVAC (which has a gas pack). We didn't smell anything there. The unit wasn't running at the time, so we kicked up the heat to turn it on. We smelled some slight odor then, but I think anytime it first kicks on, you smell a little something (especially from the blower vent). Also, should the big fan on top of this unit run when the heat is on? I think that big fan only runs when the AC is on, but wanted to confirm (I think the squirrel cage inside the unit is what pushes the heat out). We did knock all of the snow off the top of the unit.



We poked our heads under the house and didn't see anything unusual or smell anything unusual.



CO2 is odorles, plus we have CO2 detectors in the bonus, hall, and master bedroom. Pretty sure it's not that.



Any ideas what could cause this sudden smell? It definitely wasn't there when we went to bed last night (about 5 hours ago).



Thanks,



Andy

Sudden, odd smell throughout house...

Very Quiet Bulletproof Vacuum.

I'm looking for something electrical that acts like a vacuum cleaner, only really quiet & doesn't overheat & can be used for hours.



All house hold vacuum cleaners are way too loud & get hot.



thanks.

Very Quiet Bulletproof Vacuum.

Hydrotherm HC 165-pilot light won't stay lit

Gee my house is freezing!

my pilot light on my boiler went out. When I lit the pilot. I hold the button in for at least a minute but it doesn't stay lit. I have a old Hydrotherm HC 165 boiler are parts still available for this dinosaur? Or is there a fix for this problem?

Hydrotherm HC 165-pilot light won't stay lit

mercredi 25 février 2015

Dimmer Switches excess heat

In my church we have several dimmer switches that controll he main lights in the sanctuary. 2 of the switches are 3 way and control several lights. They both have a toggle type switch on the other side of the sanctuary. Both are overloaded and get very hot during our service. My question is "if I wire 2 dimmers together in series for each of the single dimmers will that split the load so that they will not be overloaded?" If not it seems that a rewiring would need to be done to reduce the number of lights being controlled by each dimmer. That would be an expensive order and one the church cannot afford at this time. The dimmers that are there now are 1000w dimmers and carry 780w each.

Dimmer Switches excess heat

Honeywell Thermostat

I installed a Honeywell thermostat about 4 months ago. Everything was fine until last week when the batteries were drained. I have changed them 3x since and can't understand why. If the batteries were fine for 4 months, why are they just now being drained.



Any help is very appreciated. Thanks!!

Honeywell Thermostat

FLECK 5600SXT Settings - Are these correct?

Hey Guys,



Here are my settings for the 5600sxt:



DF - GAL

VT - df16

CT - Fd

NT - 1

C - 48

H - 14

RS - SF

SF - 15

DO - 14

RT - 2:00

BW - 10

BD - 60

RR - 12

BF - 10

FM - t0.7



All help is appreciated.



Thanks



Bryan

FLECK 5600SXT Settings - Are these correct?

Goodman CPKE36-1A Capacitor

Hi..

I own a Goodman CPKE36-1A. It recently started giving me issues. The unit would turn on, but the fan will not spin. I have been doing a lot of research and for the most part many recommend to replace the capacitor.



Well, I turned the braker off and opened the unit and found that there are 2 capacitors.. one is bigger than the other.. one says 45 uf MFD the other 7.5 uf MFD... they are single run capacitors.. my question is, how come this unit has 2 of them?



Is one for the HEAT and the other for the FAN?

sorry for the noob question, I know very little about AC units..thanks in advance.

Goodman CPKE36-1A Capacitor

Help: DSC 1616 always turns on bypass for one zone after arming

I have a DSC 1616 unit that I installed and programmed myself. At some point, perhaps through something I did unintentionally, the system started to behave as follows: every time I arm it, it then displays "Bypass" and zone 1 is in fact bypassed. If I then clear the bypass (* 1 0 0 #), the system behaves as expected.



The mystery is that the system should only turn on bypass mode if I explicitly key in the bypass code after arming it. It's as if the zone is somehow programmed to default as bypassed, but I can't see any such mode in the installation or user manual.



I'm no expert, and I would not be surprised if I'm missing something obvious here. However, I am stumped!



Thanks in advance for any help.



Cheers,

Greg

Help: DSC 1616 always turns on bypass for one zone after arming

How to run a switchable and always on circuit to outbuilding

I have a pump house with a 1HP pump in it located about 700' away from my house. This was built in the '50s and is in serious need of updating. Currently, there is a contactor at the house (controlled by a switch in the basement) which energizes 2 hot lines that power the 240V motor in the pump house. The wires are up in the air on old poles. I will be trenching in a PVC conduit and pulling new THWN (sized appropriately for the voltage drop on such a long run).



While I'm doing this, though, I'd like to add a 120V circuit for lighting and maybe some low wattage heat tape to keep the pipes and pump from freezing in the winter.



I need this 120V circuit to be always powered, but the 240V circuit to the pump itself to be switched from the house.



I was originally thinking I could run 2 hots for the pump, a hot and a neutral for the 120V circuit, and a ground. However, I think this will run afowl of NEC 225.30 which limits the number of circuits running to an outbuilding to one.



Next I thought I could run 2 hots 1 neutral and a ground to the pump house, install a subpanel, and use the contactor at the house to switch one of the hots. The other hot would always be on and would serve the 120V circuit. However, I'm pretty sure switching one pole is a code violation, too, even though I'm not sure what section applies.



Another idea is to install the sub panel in the pump house and move the contactor to the pump house. I would have to run 2 more wires from the house to energize the coil of the contactor. I don't know if it's okay to have the contactor switch a circuit on the subpanel in the pump house and energize the coil of the contactor with a circuit from the main panel in the house. In any case, I think this violates 225.30 again, because now I have both a feeder to the subpanel and a branch circuit to the contactor coil going to the pump house.



Last idea is the same as above but to use a low voltage (24v?) coil on the contactor in the pump house. I'm assuming the low voltage control would not count as a circuit under 225.30. Can I run these wires in the same conduit? Do I need a disconnecting means for them? Is this the right way to do it?



Any other ways to go about solving this problem? I don't want to do wireless control due to difficulty of getting it right (sloping terrain and large trees in the way) and reliability concerns.

How to run a switchable and always on circuit to outbuilding

vapor barrier on rock hard dirt

Hi, I was planning on using 12 mil plastic as a vapor barrier in my crawlspace. Upon closer inspection, a lot of the dirt down there is rock hard and somewhat jagged in places. Not a lot of room to move around so I don't think I could really break it up without having it take weeks. So instead I though maybe I will use a 20mil barrier instead. Would 20mil be sufficient or is there maybe something else I should do? thanks.

vapor barrier on rock hard dirt

InterworX NX-V82 fire siren won't shut off

I have an alarm system with the circuit board # NX-8BO-FG. We set the fire alarm off(smoke from cooking) and it wouldn't shut off, so I cut the wires on the siren.

I wanted to try and get the alarm operational again so I put it back together. But the key pad wouldn't do anything...and it would flash "fire" light, and the "SERVICE" light is constantly illuminated.



After talking to an alarm company, they recommended replacing the circuit board. I have done this, but as soon as I give it power the siren is making noise and the fire light is flashing and service is illuminated. And the key pads don't seem to work.



Any suggestions?

InterworX NX-V82 fire siren won't shut off

Replace hardwired garbage disposal with corded

My garbage disposal's housing started leaking so I bought a new one. The old garbage disposal was hardwired and the new one is corded. I bought a GCFI receptacle and PVC box. Attached the romex coming out of the wall (white, black, ground) to the receptacle, plugged in the new disposal, nothing.



I used a circuit tester (two leads and a light) and confirmed that the romex coming out of the wall is hot, but only when the GC switch is on. The tester did not light when I used it on the attached receptacle.



Did I get a bum receptacle or am I missing something?

Replace hardwired garbage disposal with corded

Help with wiring a honeywell THM5320R to a honeywell V8043E1012 zone valve

I have a honeywell THM5320R Wireless Equipment Interface Module that I want to connect to a honeywell V8043E1012 zone valve. I am not sure how to connect the zone valve. I guess the red end wires will go to the burner but which terminals does the zone valve yellow wires connect to in the module? Or how do you wire this to work? I brought this unit so I would not have to run wires from the 3rd floor to the basement boiler. Thanks in advance.

Help with wiring a honeywell THM5320R to a honeywell V8043E1012 zone valve

Does water pipe insurance cover my situation?

I live in a town where I am responsible for the water line from the street to my house.



I have a house built in 1920 and I am just about to have 40 feet of galvanized pipe INSIDE the basement replaced, that is from the point in which the water pipe enters the basement to the water heater and some more. Seems simple enough, right?



The plumber gave an estimate to do the work but advised that since he would be cutting the galvanized pipe coming in from the street at the entry point into my house, just in case that feed pipe is corroded, it might rupture or something once he cut it to start the process of replacing the inside galvanized pipe. So he recommended getting water pipe insurance first.



I ordered the water pipe insurance forms and read them. They have a 30 day wait period after signing before the insurance kicks in. But more troubling is that they say if the water pipe problem is caused by actions of the owner or a contractor, the insurance is void.



So when the plumber cuts the corroded water pipe just inside the basement and there is a problem with the pipe from that point to the street, am I still covered? If not, why would an experienced plumber in a town with lots of very old pipe recommend getting water pipe insurance before he started working in my basement if such a situation would not be covered?



I'd appreciate any guidance on this....



Best,



Dave

Does water pipe insurance cover my situation?

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Underperforming 19 year old water heater

State Water Heater PRV 40 NODS 970, 40 gallon, 36k BTU, gas.

Thermostat set on hottest mark "very hot" (after "c")



output to kitchen after running for 5 minutes = 135 degrees. (wouldn't you think it would be hotter?)



I have no idea whether the tank has had any maintenance whatsoever, no clue as to sediment, etc. I plan to drain and check sediment asap.



Is there anything I can do or check to see if I can get this heater to perfom better? Between the kids/spouse/myself, we sometimes need to take 3 or even 4 sequential showers, and the current situation is very limiting.



Some things I've thought about doing (please comment):



Check/Replace DipStick and/or anode

Adding a small electric tankless heater to pre-heat the cold water (13kw, 4 gpm)



That's about all I came up with.



Any other Ideas are absolutely welcome.



Lenny

Underperforming 19 year old water heater

Outdoor Deck Flooring

I have a wooden outdoor deck with roof that im screening in, if the wind blows strong and its raining certain parts can get wet.



It has 2x6 for the floor, what can I use for flooring, I can only assume outdoor carpet which costs 650$ on maui will get dirty too quickly and eventually get mildew.



Some online options I have found costs around $1800 for my deck, interlocking tiles etc.



Im looking for something soft on the feet, vinyl etc, moppable...



Any ideas please? Links?

Outdoor Deck Flooring

mardi 24 février 2015

Branching Duct to Added Kitchen

Hey guys,



We are converting the 3rd bay of our garage to a kitchen and need to add a ventilation duct. It is very difficult to bring an additional duct from the main supply. But there is one 9" duct that feeds the living room. The living room does have other ventilation registers so I am not worried about it getting not enough air movement.



My plan was to branch this 9" duct down to 8" using a 9->8 reducer.



Then use a 8-8-8 Tee. Then the living room register that was getting 9" duct would be sized back to 9" from the 8" tee.



The register that feeds the kitchen would then get reduced again to 6" using a 8-6 reducer. The kitchen will have about 150 sq-feet. Does the register need to be near the window and away from the door, or is it okay if I place above the door? (this will make my life very easy).





Thanks!

Branching Duct to Added Kitchen

Extending 50A Aluminum #6 oven wire

Hi guys,



We have to move a 50A oven outlet down by about 2-3 feet. Currently it would be sitting on the higher end of the counter and to the left of the oven. Is it code for the outlet to be about 7-8 inches above floor level?



I think we have to move it which is why I have done some research on what needs to be done. The current cable has this name printed on it:



"BICCGENERAL -P FLEXILOY (TM) -3 CORS 6 AWG AL 1 COR 6 AWG AL TYPE SE STYLE R TYPE XHHW-2 CORS 600 VOLTS (UL)"



The cable has 4 wires, one of which is exposed ground wire. All the cables appear to be stranded (about 6-8 strands per wire) and are insulated.



I can't find a similar cable so the plan was to use 6-3 NM-B copper wires and connect them using the Polaris IPL4-3 connector. I know the Polaris connector does not support fine stranded flexible cable, but this is not fine stranded.



We haven't selected a range yet, but I can't imagine it would need more than 50A.



Please let me know what you guys think.



Thanks!

Extending 50A Aluminum #6 oven wire

wobbly ladder

When someone used a ladder to go up to my attic, they suggested that I make it stable by putting on two screws to hook onto the floor of the attic. I'm not sure what he was talking about.



Thanks!

Karen

wobbly ladder

Insulate Crawl Space Floor

I'm in the process of insulating my crawl space and putting down a drainage mat and vapor barrier. The other thing I believe I should do is to put some insulation between the drainage mat and the vapor barrier. My question is: What should I use? I can buy styrofoam that will give me about 3R value, and I can line the floor of the crawl space for about $300.



The second question is whether or not I should use more insulation on the walls or not. My understanding is that R3 - R6 isn't very much. Should I double up my insulation?



Finally, I understand that air sealing is a big deal, but is air sealing a big deal when I'm putting it on the ground? I'm going to be sealing it with the vapor barrier, so do I need to tape the boards together or something? If I don't tape them together I might get little gaps where there is no insulation, but does that drastically impact their effectiveness?



One last thing, I'm not really sure if I need to "air seal" the top of the floor joists. Light does not get into the crawl space from the outside in any space except for the one vent, which I intend to seal. So Do I need to do anything else? How do I test for this?



Thanks guys!

Insulate Crawl Space Floor

Maytag stove

Hi All, how do I set this oven for timed baking?

Model # MER7662WW.

Thanks

Geo

Maytag stove

ISO replacement keypad for Safewatch Pro 3000EN

We bought a house that has a working ADT system already installed. It's a Safewatch Pro 3000EN system.



The main keypad is at the back door and works great. But the keypad in the master bedroom does not work. I took it off the wall and saw that it was not wired into the wall and it was even missing some of the parts inside. So I need a new panel for the bedroom that can also turn the alarm on/off. I also want it to have a display so that if the alarm goes off, I can see why from the bedroom instead of having to go downstairs to the kitchen. I’m assuming we need a wireless keypad since there are no existing wires.



What would you recommend that’s compatible with our Safewatch Pro 3000EN system?



Thanks in advance

ISO replacement keypad for Safewatch Pro 3000EN

poulan 4000 chainsaw issues

I was given a Poulan 4000 chainsaw to buck some logs. The stupid thing won't start. I'm sure it's a carb adjustment issue. I've tried adjusting it from scratch but it won't even start to tune it. Any thoughts on what I can do?

poulan 4000 chainsaw issues

Boiler Wiring Question

I need to properly wire my gas boiler, currently there is romex connected to it.

I know that is a no no.



Is it OK to suspend metal clad cable from a joist to the boiler or is rigid conduit required?

Boiler Wiring Question

Trane High E has code 2

I have a Trane High E packaged gas heat and AC unit outside. When ever the weather is damp or rains the furnace try's to start but shuts down and sets a

code 2.

I have replaced the igniter and still does it.

Service people blame the air filter but I have replaced it many times when they come out they reset the computer and it starts but they never have fixed the problem. This has been going on for 4 years.

Trane High E has code 2

Tecumseh 5.5 hp: won't restart unless primed

I picked up a Craftsman lawnmower with a Tecumseh 5.5 HP engine. I went through the carb (part no. 640174) just to clean it and everything looked pretty good...I didn't replace any parts, yet.



I got it running, but found that I have to prime it on every start/restart. I've read some people say this is normal, but every lawnmower I've used you are able to restart it without priming.



I mainly just have a general question about these small engine carbs. In order for the engine to restart without priming, the gas has to remain in the emulsion tube and not run back into the bowl (correct?)...but how is this possible if air can get into the bowl from the primer bulb? (i.e. the bowl is not airtight so gas can flow back into the bowl).

Tecumseh 5.5 hp: won't restart unless primed

lundi 23 février 2015

Rheem Heat Pump Rpka-031JAZ Specs

Hey,



I have a Rheem Heat Pump Rpka-031JAZ and im looking to find the specs on it to charge my system.

I think is a 2 ton r22? I belive it should take 6lbs?



Anyone have any good vids they follow to charge system. Or a drawing of the rheem system to verify hookups.

Rheem Heat Pump Rpka-031JAZ Specs

Am I buying wrong sink? Need to know today.

Hi guys, we are remodeling our kitchen right now. Cabinets are installed and the granite guy is coming to measure on Thursday. I was about to order a sink off of amazon (mr direct most likely- I know it's not too fancy, but we did our whole kitchen including appliances for under $5k.). I want to be sure I am not getting a sink that is too deep for the existing drain pipe, as re routing it is out of the question from a budget perspective. I just measured, and the top of the drain pipe (not sure of the correct name- metal sewer line coming out of the wall horizontally) is approximately 15" from the top of the cabinets. We are getting 2 cm granite, so the top of the counter will be approx 15.75" from the top edge of the pipe. The sink cabinet is 36" wide, and we are leaning towards a 9" deep double bowl under mount. Not 100% set on a disposal, but it would be nice to know we can add one easily if we decide to. It seems to me that it should have enough room with or without the disposal, but I may be wrong. 15" from the top of the sink, minus 9" leaves 6" for p trap and disposal. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Am I buying wrong sink? Need to know today.

Evaporator / water pad recommendations

Hi everyone,



I have an Aprilaire 500 humidifier installed in my home (2000 sq.ft.). I've noticed the humidity level is very low. A hygrometer is showing 28-29% RH, and the manual humidistat is at the maximum setting of 45%. My neighbour has the exact same house layout, he doesn't even have a humidifier and his house is also 28-29%, so it looks like my humidifier isn't working properly.



If I reduce the humidistat setting, it will eventually 'click' and the solenoid will turn off.... So under normal circumstances the humidistat doesn't think the house has reached the desired humidity.



When the heat is on, I can see water flowing, and the humidifier seems to be operating correctly. The solenoid is connected to the hot water supply. Outside temperature has been -10 to -20 C over the last few weeks. I'm in Ontario.



Anyway, I'm wondering if the water pad brand has any effect. I bought some Best Air Pro water pads, which look and feel like the Aprilaire originals, but I'm not sure if they're doing the job.



What is everyone's experience with these? Is it better to buy the authentic ones from Aprilaire, or should I focus my attention to something else that could be the problem?



The only other thing I haven't tried is connecting the solenoid to the fan (EAC) terminals via a transformer, in order to get the humidifier to run longer. It's currently connected to HUM, and the furnace runs for 10 mins or so at a time.



Thanks!

Evaporator / water pad recommendations

How can I resurface a faux wood dining table?

Hi I am new to the diy site but not to diy projects! I bought a used dining table thinking it was wood. After my daughter left a handbag with a leaking fingernail polish remover bottle on it, found out otherwise. The surface finish came up completely when she lifted off the handbag a few days later. The top finish is a glossy faux wood grain paint. under this looks like maybe masonite. Very hard, and definietly not wood. Table is oval with leaves. It's the perfect fit in our narrow dining room so I am hoping there is some way to resurface it. Gets a lot of heavy use! Since initial "injury", the surface coat is chipping off at the edges of the leaves. Any suggestions as to how I could resurface??



Thank you!



kimmac



:confused:

How can I resurface a faux wood dining table?

suggestion Troy

Make a forum topic for the tiny house or tiny house videos so that video and projects can be discussed. Using Mobile device here.

suggestion Troy

Dishwasher Warranty Void If Laying Down On Its Side While Still In the Box!

I just brought a new dishwasher home from Lowes - still in the box. On the side of the Frigidaire box it says:



"Do not lay unit on side or front. Unit must be layed on back or kept upright. Failure to comply may result in voiding of warranty."



I had the unit in my van on its side on the way home.



Does anyone know for sure what damage this can do? I can't find anything on the web.

Dishwasher Warranty Void If Laying Down On Its Side While Still In the Box!

Pre-padded Carpet vs. Individula Padding

Is there any preference or recommendations of using the 1/4" pre-backed carpet compared to the individual pad and carpet? It looks like the individual pad has a thickness of 3/8", so I'd assume it would provide some more cushion and I'm sure the install cost will be slightly higher to install the pad first.



Anyone one has a strong preference either way?



Thanks

Pre-padded Carpet vs. Individula Padding

Replacing Honeywell TH8320U1008 with TH832U1006

I am replacing it to get humidity control. Thought I could just pop the unit onto the old back plate, however the old plate has:

Y2 . RC

L . R

E . O/B

AUX . Y

S1 . G

S2 . C



With Black connected to E and White to AUX



New plate has:

Y2 . RC

L . R

AUX /E . O/B

(blank) . Y

S1 . G

S2 . C



The new unit has no E by itself, just one connection labeled AUX/E



How do I connect the Black & White wires? All other wires on right side match up.



Trane with Heat Pump

Replacing Honeywell TH8320U1008 with TH832U1006

Track Lights - Any Standards?

A customer wants me to a simple job on the side, replace some track lights, "heads only" is what I was thinking.



I have with me 2 fixtures I removed for samples. Each has different connection means and sizes.



I rarely deal with track lights. Are there any standards at all for connections, or does each manufacturer have their own design?

Track Lights - Any Standards?

Strange operation of gas WH

Have a Rheem 21V40-7 made in 06/99 in this rental. It's in the garage which stays 60 degrees or higher. Even with no water usage I occasionally hear the burner kick on and run for a few minutes. It does this several times a day. I've checked the meter and there's no movement of the little triangle so no leaks.



There's a line on the label that says R 6.7...I'm guessing that's the insulation around the tank?



My AO Smith WH in my last place was in the laundry room in a closet and I never heard it kick on unless water was used. That area was prob 70 degrees, but the unit was built in 1990 (yes, it's that old and still working fine). I don't know the model or R value.



I know they are unnecessary on most newer units, but do you think a blanket might help? I hate just heating water multiple times just to let it sit all day. Maybe I should just turn it way down, and then turn it back up to normal 15 min before I need to shower?



Thanks

Strange operation of gas WH

zone valve motor constantly running

Hello,



Appreciate any assistance with this one. Noticed one of my zones was not kicking on heat. So far my troubleshooting / learning in the past 24 hours has lead me to the motor/valve.



When the tstat kicks on, the motor gets 25v and keeps spinning. The end switch appears to be working OK as the heat kicks on when the switch is pressed.



What I think originally happened, the unknown has failed. The motor spun and jammed the valve open and it was stuck open. After removing the motor I was able to get the valve to freely open/close, and the motor seems to spin ok now so all that seems well.



Question-what would cause the motor to keep spinning? Is there a switch in the valve that tells it to stop the motor? Should it stop when it feels resistance? Should I replace the motor or will I likely need to replace the valve? How can I further troubleshoot?



It looks to be a pretty standard setup. New to the home though so not sure on the history of any parts. Its a honeywell motor with 2 wires coming off of it, 4 wires on top that are all connected in parallel to the other zones.

zone valve motor constantly running

2001 Buick LeSabre - Starts great every time but immediately stalls out aftrwrds

During last weeks coldest day (-12 degrees F) went to start my 2001 V6 3800 Buick LeSabre and it did start - but would not continue to run on releasing key from Start position... Tried a couple of more times with similar results - starts right up and then dies.

I just assumed something was frozen up and decided to wait until a slightly warmer day to try again. Saturday & Sunday it was basically just above freezing all day so I tried to start the Buick yesterday afternoon and got the same results. During one attempt I tried pumping the gas pedal a little to give it a little more gas to keep it running and it died just as quickly.



The car had run fine a couple of days before the hard cold snap for around 10 miles and then parked in the drive way.

Also, last month it had to have the fuel line replaced by my local shop due to a fuel leak and rusted fuel line and I've run it for maybe a couple of hundred miles since the repair...



Anything else you can think of that I could try - besides waiting until the temperature gets into the 40's, which at this point might be another month or two...?

Thanks,

greynold99

2001 Buick LeSabre - Starts great every time but immediately stalls out aftrwrds

dimanche 22 février 2015

Whats the best anchors to use to attach board and batten shutters to brick

Im fixing to add some board and batten shutters to the exterior of my brick home. I would rather fasten them into the mortar than the brick but I know from experience over the years mortar usually doesn't hold to well. What are the best fasteners to use? I would like to be able to remove these shutters in the future to be able to refinish them. I don't want to end up with a lot of holes in my brick where these shutters are installed. I would prefer to use something I can pick up form Homedepot, Lowes or even ACE Hardware. The shutters are made of wood and I plan on drilling a small counter sink into the wood for the fasteners. I will be staining the heads of these fasteners to match the shutters also.

Whats the best anchors to use to attach board and batten shutters to brick

How to clean a slightly rusty solenoid?

Hi,

not exactly sure where to post this?



Pulled a simple solenoid off of a dishwasher that is a bit rusty but still works.

Wondering if cleaning it as simple as using some rust remover, something else perhaps? Flushing with water & using compressed air to dry.



I had thought it might be in need of a little emery cloth. Would that be unwise?



thank you,

rich

How to clean a slightly rusty solenoid?

Anyone uses Rikon Air Filtation System for woodworking?

2 questions about the Rikon Filtration system (model 62-400).

1. How do you like it and does it work well for you (particular set up that would be preferred ?)

2. I see they don't recommend it for use when doing drywall / sanding joint compound, and of course I know it wasn't design for that purpose but would it really hurt to use it once in a blue moon for a small repair ? I see it has 2 filters (5 and 1 micron so it should stop the dust....)



thanks!

Anyone uses Rikon Air Filtation System for woodworking?

How to tell I have a 3 -way switch?

Hello,



If I have a switch up stairs, and a switch by a door and another switch in the hallway that turns on the same light, is this a 3 way switch? Do I need three 3-way switches if I wanted to replace all switches?



Thanks,



Paul

How to tell I have a 3 -way switch?

Non-sanded grout used on floor (mosaic) - total tear out?

I've been told that the wrong type of grout was used on my bathroom floor -- non-sanded instead of a sand-type mix. The grout itself appears to be sound, but it is a pain to keep clean, as the grout attracts dirt. Since the floor is mosaic, there are hundreds of grout lines throughout, so scraping and reapplying is not an option.



Is the only solution to tear out the mosaic and start again?

Non-sanded grout used on floor (mosaic) - total tear out?

Can fiberglass insulation touch aluminium dryer pipe?

Aluminum vent pipes get much hotter to touch than flexible vents. Can they touch fiberglass insulation?



Thanks.

Can fiberglass insulation touch aluminium dryer pipe?

Making exhaust hood properly fit pipe going through attic (about an inch off)

New house. There is what seems to be a combination microwave and oven exhaust hood above the oven. The exhaust pipe doesn't quite fit over the connection with damper that is part of the microwave/exhaust hood. It's probably about an inch off, and the upper pipe shown is immovable.



How do I handle making this fit properly? Is there some type of flex piping I can use under code? Is there a slanted "extension" piece I can get, perhaps where you cut off a bit to make it the amount of horizontal movement you want? Then, cutting the pipe coming down from the attic so there's only a few inches left, and connecting to that?



As is, it leaks a certain amount of heat and CO into this cabinet...



The picture makes it look like I might be able to squeeze the "bottom circular pipe to rectangular pipe converter" a tad to the right, but no, that doesn't work no matter how hard we push on it.








Making exhaust hood properly fit pipe going through attic (about an inch off)

Where foam board on concrete walls meets insulated subfloor panels

My first posting! Thanks in advance to such a knowledgeable group.



I'm planning on covering the basement concrete walls with 2" rigid foam board (for insulation and vapor properties). I'm also planning on installing Tyroc or DRIcore insulated subfloor panels, before framing any interior walls on top of the panels.



My question is... should I install the foam board on the walls first tightly from ceiling joist to concrete slab and THEN install the subfloor panels? Or vice versa? My gut tells me the to put the subfloor down second because I think there needs to be a 1/4" gap for ventilation, which would make the gap between the subfloor and the wall board.



Can anyone please confirm if I'm thinking about this the right way? And in general do you have any thoughts to share on where insulated walls meet insulated floors?

Where foam board on concrete walls meets insulated subfloor panels

best built motor homes from the 90's

I'm about to start looking for a class a and would like to narrow it down if I can. The interiors all look the same and I'll change mine to what I want but I'd like to start with a good foundation/construction. Plywood floors instead of chipboard, solid framing, etc. I appreciate any suggestions to look for or stay away from.

best built motor homes from the 90's

Need help with fitting an exhaust pipe/hose to the bottom face of a crate.

Hi everyone,



To provide context of where this is coming from, I am working on building an aeroponic system, with an external reservoir and pump. The external reservoir contains nutrient solution that is pumped to a few dozen crates via inlet pipes (inlet, from the pov of the crates). As an Aeroponic system is a closed-loop system, there's a need to drain the nutrient solution back to the external reservoir.



For drainage purposes, I have drilled holes at the bottom of my crates, through which I intended to fit either PVC pipes or garden hoses, that would then drain back to the external reservoir.



My question is, what is the best way to fit a pipe/hose to an orifice at the bottom of a crate, such that it's a good, solid fit without leak and with the fit not coming off loose even if there's a substantial volume of water (and hence a large weight) acting on it.



Please note that the pipe cannot protrude deep into the crate, as for drainage purposes, the level of the pipe's opening has to be at the same level as the interior floor of the crates.

Need help with fitting an exhaust pipe/hose to the bottom face of a crate.

Heat Reclaim Wheels

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Heat Reclaim Wheels

Removing Clay from Terrattoa Pipe

I have approx. 20 feet of 6 inch ID clogged terracotta pipe in my basement drain system, plugged with clay soil. I have the far southern end excavated for access, approx. 20 ft. of plugged pipe, then a drain at the mid point, and then the drain exists the house at the north (this section is clear). Given that it's in the basement, I did not want to use a water jet, and my big shop vac isn't cutting it.



After it's unclogged, I plan to sleeve PVC inside the clogged section of pipe to the mid-point drain.



Thanks

Removing Clay from Terrattoa Pipe

Well Pump Intermittent Water Loss

Hi Everyone. We started getting a little bit of air coming out of the faucets a few days ago, particularly in the morning. Now for the past few days when we are using water for an extended period of time (showers, laundry) the water will completely stop and then start back up after anywhere from 10-45 seconds. We also still have some occasional air in the system too.



We have a submersible well pump and a tank with a bladder. The well and pump are from 2006. I initially thought the Square D pressure switch was shot or clogged but it seems to be functioning. I cleaned the contacts and the pump is getting 220-240 volts. The switch will close the contacts and call for water but the pump seems to work intermittently. There may be a swoosh of water coming to the tank for a minute or so and then it will stop even with the pressure switch still calling for water. Then a minute or so later the pump will send more water and so on.



We are in CT and have had extra cold weather for the past week or two. Down to the single digits at night or even below 0. Not sure if this has anything to do with it since the pump and plumbing should be pretty deep underground. Does anyone have any ideas? Thank You

Well Pump Intermittent Water Loss

Kinetico - Model 51 - Will not draw brine

Unit produced in '98. Have had no issue in last 8 years. #2 wheel, double tank system.



I have checked float valve assembly, brine elbow, venturi, venturi throat, stem values, and brine float control. Everything looks good, nice circle of light and can blow air though with one exception. I think I used a paper clip on brine float control in the past and I think I have higher air flow when I blow through it.



For testing, I disconnected the brine tubing at the brine elbow into the Level 3. I have constant mild stream of water coming out of the brine elbow even when system is not in regeneration mode. Not sure if that is normal or not. It takes a good deal of pressure with my thumb over the brine elbow to get the flow of water to stop.



The only difference is a couple minutes into the brine cycle. Water pressure drops and comes out of the brine elbow a little more than a trickle. It is easy for me to get the water to stop with my thumb. There is no suction at this point though. Even if I hold for a few minutes, no suction occurs.



I have uploaded a video to YouTube of unit going though manual regeneration cycle. At end of video I have attached photos of some of the components I have checked with comments.



Kinetico 51 - Will not draw brine - YouTube



I hope you can assist in troubleshooting my issue. I hope I am missing something easy, but let me know if I you suggest I visit my dealer and pickup some replacement parts.



Thanks.

Kinetico - Model 51 - Will not draw brine

Tank fuel lines, how low do you go?

Years back my father replaced the fuel lines here after one of them became plugged. (We found there was 1/4 of a pencil in the end of the line somehow :eek: )



Anyway when he replaced them, he didn't use ridged lines, just flexible copper. Either he didn't put them in straight up and down or over the years they've been "swept aside" from fuel fillings (or a combination of both), to the point where I'm now running out of fuel with 13-15" left in the tank (500 gallon tank, so a lot of fuel).



In the spring/summer my plan is to do it over with the copper line inside ridged copper. My question is, how far off the bottom of the tank should the lines be? Is there an industry standard?

Tank fuel lines, how low do you go?

Polaris galaxy 440

I just bought a '80 Polaris galaxy 440 and I put a new throttle cable on it. Now when I accelerate I can get up to about 10mph but when I push the throttle all the way in it boggs down to an idle. I spent about 5 hours adjusting the throttle and the carbs but its not making a difference. I'm starting to think it might be a clutch problem but I'm not sure so any help would be greatly appreciated,

Thanks.

Polaris galaxy 440

samedi 21 février 2015

exhaust vent in the way of half round gutter

Am putting half round gutters on a cottage. Attached toolshed contains the combo unit for hot water and floor heat. The exhaust vent is quite close to the rafter tails to which the gutters will be attached. I doubt the gutter will squeeze between.



I suppose could bend the gutter edge but...



Any more clever way to pass the exhaust vent? Like end on section before, start another after, and join them somehow? Or?



Thank you.

exhaust vent in the way of half round gutter

Generator surging Under NO load

So back ground.. I bought a sportsman GEN7000 genny last summer.

Prepped per directions, run with gas in summer and late Fall for about 30 min each time with gas and stabil. Each time was put away by turning fuel off letting carb run dry and siphoning out old gas. ( gas never sat in it for more than a day)



Last week Electrician put in a transfer panel, we hooked up the genny to it to ensure proper connection etc etc..

The genny was outside all day in about 4 degree weather.

It started fine (not connected to the transfer panel) with choke closed, then ran for another 30 seconds and choke slowly opened. Even after 30 min i couldnt open choke all the way, it only went to open 70% before the genny rhytmically surged but never turned off. Yuo could see the governor working back and forth in rhythym with the engine surging



We connected to the panel with the choke open and the genny surging and it outputted steady 240 volts but you could see lights in the house dim in rhythym with the genny surging noise. I cant remember if the light s dimmed steadily or output was steady with the choke only open 70% and no steady rhythmic surging.



I figured the carb just got clogged with fuel and was ready to tear it apart. but reading the manual it said that the air and gas flow ratio needs to be reset if the genny doesnt run. Turn the screw till it bottoms out then turn it out 2 1/2 turns out.



So today I went out in 12 degrees, genny turns on easily, ( again NO LOAD) and open choke to 70% before i see the same surging symptoms. I bottom the screw out and the surging dissapears and I open the choke full open. I start to turn the screw out 2 1/2 turns out but the surging returns after only a 1/4 turn out.



What gives? Should I turn the screw out under load only? (I didnt do that today as family was over, it was prohibitive) And more for just my knowledge why did it run fine in summer and fall but now now? Colder/ denser air? ethanol in gas? Tomorrow I'll run it with choke 70% open just before it surges. Then hook it up to the transfer pan and get a load on it and open choke all the way and ill hear the surging. Then Ill play around with that screw and i'm assuming i'll hit the magical screw turn.. right?

Generator surging Under NO load

Need help.

My wife and I are in need of supplemental heat in our basement (on very cold nights or in a power outage). We have gotten multiple quotes to run a gas line to the fireplace all over $1500. We can't use it for wood because the liner is cracked, plus the wife is allergic to smoke. Is there a propane insert or something that works with the LP tanks similar to those for grills that I can get and use the chimney as is for ventilation? Hope to keep price around $600-700.

Need help.

Questions about setting up a zoned system

I want to install a retrofit zoning system in our house. We have a two story house out in the sun with a very pitched roof and temperature differences vary dramatically throughout our house.



I have been reading/researching the various retrofit zone systems. Let me say what I would like to do and then maybe someone can tell me if there is a system for it.



Note sure how many zones I am going to do but want something expandable. At least 4 zones, maybe 6.



I realize each zone needs a thermostat, but is there a system that just has remote thermostats that aren't actually controls, but controlled from a main area (whether a cell phone app of centrally located thermostat). I don't need each individual zone to have it's own thermostat controls, but need to be able to control all the zones and ideally I could do it all in one area.



For instance I just installed a Nest thermostat in our house. It's a nice product, but if I wanted to use nest, I'd have to put a nest up in each room... right? Ecobee has a system where you can add remote sensors, but I don't think you can set it up for zone controlling.



Someone point me in the right direction! Thanks

Questions about setting up a zoned system

removing middle of the run receptacle

Just a quick question; is there a code complaint way of splicing back cables after I remove the middle of the run receptacle WITHOUT using a box ?



I think I have seen some sort of new innovative snap in connector that can splice together 2 wires.



PS: I would have 2x AWG12 to reconnect



Thanks!

removing middle of the run receptacle

Harsh Winter = Cold Showers

I've recently moved into a 1986 Colonial home in central-CT and have noticed the furnace has begun to struggle with our currently harsh winter. It wasnt great before now, but definitely wasnt this bad. There are only 2 occupants; my wife and I. Previously there were 2 adults and a 20-25 year old girl.



The furnace is a 2-3 year old Weil-McLain Gold and runs on oil.

The house has 2 zones.

Temps have been in the single digits with wind chills below zero.



I must admit I'm a novice when it comes to HVAC stuff, so apologies in advance.



Here are some pics I took of her, hopefully it can shed a little light. I've been told that perhaps the call temp is too low or the mixing valve needs to be adjusted?












Harsh Winter = Cold Showers

'11 Jeep Liberty, dropped to idle and fuel gauge dropped to E while on highway

Weirdest thing, my son was on cruise control doing 65 when all of a sudden the RPM went to idle and the fuel gauge dropped to E. He pulled over and eventually turned off the truck, restarted and everything was good again!



My first thought was a TPS sensor but that doesn't explain the fuel gauge dropping to E. The truck never stalled, and all of the accessories continued to work, and no warning lights.



Any suggestions?

'11 Jeep Liberty, dropped to idle and fuel gauge dropped to E while on highway

no water thru faucets on the hot sides

i have cold water but when u turn on the hot water on any faucet nothing comes out. the pipes comin from the hot water heater are warm if that means anything. any help?

no water thru faucets on the hot sides

Heat Pump Cover to prevent ice build up.

I've been researching this topic online and am getting a lot of mixed feedback. What I need to do is prevent the ice and snow (mostly ice) from building up on the fan blades of my heat pump. We heat a lot with wood. The heat pump will come on early morning when the wood stove temp has dropped enough to kick on the heat pump. The problem is our heat pump may have been sitting for 12-14 hours with the fan blades not moving. The ice is either shot off damaging the interior fins, or, the whole outside unit will violently shake because the weight of the ice throws the fan off balance. Ive been dealing with this issue for quite a few years and with all the ice this winter, I've had enough. I know the heat pump needs to breath so I'm only looking for a roof type structure to cover the top. I have all the materials to build such a thing on hand so this will only cost me time.



Now, I read the HVAC forums and you would think I was advocating wrapping it in duct tape. lol I realize air movement is key, but what I don't know is the magic number height wise for a small cover. 6'? My heat pump is an older goodman brand and I can't tell what the SEER is, I'd guess 2. lol



The location of the heat pump is on the south side of my house along the basement wall so it looks like it is under a 2 story wall as we live on a hill. I have gutters on the house so the issue isn't ice or snow or anything coming off the house. It's the lovely ice storms we get and the snow that melts only to freeze onto everything the next night.



I considered a canvas/awning type material in hopes that it would let air escape but I don't think that will be much different from a metal roof 6' above the surface of the heat pump.



So am I insane for doing this? Will my electric bill skyrocket? Will I shorten the life of my heat pump?



I need to do something to address this issue.



Thanks for the feedback.

Heat Pump Cover to prevent ice build up.

Should repair guy actually test parts, or just switch stuff out?

Regarding my Rheem Criterion Furnace (1994), my question is what should I be expecting from the furnace repair guy.



What's happening is on start-up, the draft blower starts, the burners ignite and then the circulation blower starts. However, half the time, the furnace stops about 10 seconds after the circulation blower.



With some reading I gave the flame sensor a good scrub with steel wool -- no change. So I called repair guy who said it was either the flame sensor or the control board, so he replaced the flame sensor ($30 part, $110 for the call). It worked fine for the few test starts while he was here, but sure enough, it continues to misbehave. I expect if I call him them back, they'll suggest changing out the control board.



What surprises me is there is no testing of components -- just change stuff until the problem stops. I'm wondering if there is a sensor/switch that is flaky and is not sensing that the blower is running, and therefore shuts the furnace down.



Should I be expecting someone to actually test components, or just switch out parts based on best guess?



Thanks.

Should repair guy actually test parts, or just switch stuff out?

Bathroom Exhaust Fan GFCI

I am installing an exhaust fan in the ceiling between the shower and tub to get rid of moisture. I want to tie it into the same switch as the existing exhaust fan over the toilet which is not on a GFCI circuit. Can I just install a GFCI breaker on the bathroom circuit for the lights and existing exhaust fan? Is there any reason not to do that?

Bathroom Exhaust Fan GFCI

Best System For Indpendent Fan Use

We're upgrading two 15 year old R-22 heat pump split systems (10 seer I believe) to something more efficient. I have quotes for 13 seer four and five ton systems. We are actually going to do 14 seer or better. Still looking at DIY, but need to decide on equipment before anything else. Do to allergies and asthma in the family, we are going to add UV treatment and electronic air cleaner. Due to the desire for air quality enhancements, we're looking at running the fans without heat or cooling sometimes. I'm assuming a DC fan would be most economic for above-average fan utilization. I think I've seen DC fans in some 14 seer units, and they seem to be the norm in 16 seer. I guess I'm concerned about complexity vs. the energy savings of higher seer systems, not to mention up front cost. I'd appreciate thoughts on the best approach to keep our indoor air turnover economical and reliable.

Best System For Indpendent Fan Use

heat pump not starting all the time

I have a Rheem RPQL heat pump that is about 3 years old. So far this winter I have had lots of problems with it. It was icing up and the sensor and main board was replaced. Still iced up and some gas was added and it seemed Ok then.



Now at times the pump won’t start but the aux heat comes on. When this has happened I go out and check the codes and get L21 which seems to be a low pressure control and something about three times same thermostat call. I turn of the unit at the thermostat and open the breaker; wait about 5 minutes turn breaker back on and the set thermostat to heat. This seems to rest thing and it works for a while and then it happens again.



This has been happening when it has been very cold, with high temps in the teens and about 0 at night. But when I reset everything the pump does start and run sometimes with and sometimes without aux heat. I do notice that when I turn the heat back on after rest that the “heat on” indictor on the thermostat blinks for quite a while before the pump starts.



I am wondering if this is normal for the kinds of temps I’m having now or if something is wrong? I have a tech scheduled for Monday but would like to have any insight you might have before he comes.



Thanks in advance

heat pump not starting all the time

200 amp break shut off

I was wondering what could shut off the 200 amp breaker. No other breakers went off but that one. Find it weird it never happen before. Thanks for the help...

200 amp break shut off

Does PEX need to be wrappd?

Copper pipe will sweat and drip, but will PEX do the same. I am running it in the ceiling going throug the joists and wasn't sure if I should be wrapping it up with the same stuff used for the copper? I will for sure do a good test and leave everything exposed for a good while to look for leaks but should I be wrapping everything up (Tee's, joints, etc..)

Does PEX need to be wrappd?

Natural Gas furnance stops after about 10 minutes.

I have a Trane Furnace TUE080A948b0. From a heating standpoint, it runs as it should, but for only 10 minutes (95% of the time). Every once in a while it will run longer until the Thermostat conditions are met, but the majority of the time it only runs 10 minutes.

It is not the Thermostat, as I've removed that and jumped the call for heat wires, and the Furnace still shuts off after 10 minutes.

Obviously all the initial conditions are met for it to initially work (inducer motor, igniter, limit switch, pressure switch, gas valve, and radiant heat sensor).

I would like to note that while the Thermostat is single stage, it looks like based on a furnace timer, that the Furnace goes to its second stage around the 10 minute mark....not sure if this has something to do with it. I don't know what conditions would change that would prevent it from going to second stage.

The furnace always starts 100% of the time with heat, after a reset or new call for heat, but shuts of at around 10 minutes.

Any ideas?

Natural Gas furnance stops after about 10 minutes.

Need help locating replacement ribbon cable !!

I have a 7 inch- 17 wire flat ribbon cable with crimpflex connectors on either side , a mouse chewed though it , and now it's useless. Cable goes to a control board in a Kenmore oven. Model (790.41012801). I've called appliance repair , Kenmore, Fridgidaire, and computer repair shops, and no one knows where I can find a replacement . The part number is a dead end . Any suggestions would be much appreciated . Once I figure out how to post pics I will do so. Thanks

Need help locating replacement ribbon cable !!

What Fastener to Use To Attach Fabric to Plastic Chair Seat?

I want to re-upholster my office chair seat. The seat is 3/8" to 1/2" plastic. Currently the fabric is stapled to the plastic. What alternative fasteners can one use?



Thanks.

What Fastener to Use To Attach Fabric to Plastic Chair Seat?

vendredi 20 février 2015

Well pump not working properly

Hello all,



This is my first post here because I have a problem with my well pump.



We bought this house about 2.5 years ago and hadn't had a problem with it before. The well is about 37 feet deep (from what I recall on the documents). I'm not sure about the pump but I believe it is a jet pump that is inside the house and has been drywalled over. The main line runs about 20 ft. from the pump to the pressure tank which is a 26 gal. Water Worker model that was installed in Oct. 2011. After the tank is a filtration system. There is a shutoff before and after the pressure tank. The switch is set for 40/60 and the air pressure in the tank is 38psi.



The problem started about a month ago when I was losing pressure in my main water line and the pump was cycling on every five minutes. I installed a check valve in the line that lead from the pump to the pressure tank and it solved the problem.



About a week ago I started to get an intensely obnoxious water hammer in the main line whenever the pump would shut off. I was getting ready to install a water hammer arrestor in the line right before the check valve when my current issue popped up.



Now my pump runs constantly and can't reach the 62 psi it used to shut off at. I have been shutting it off at the breaker whenever we don't need water but it seems to be getting worse. I should note that we still have water in the house.



The pressure does not drop either, it just can't reach the shut off point. Any ideas? Do you think I need a new pump as it could have been burned out?



Oh, and the last time I changed my filter (yesterday) there was a lot of sediment in the bottom. Much more than I've ever seen before. I closed and opened the valve several times to blast as much as I could out of there and I did get some more (did it three or four times).



Maybe my well is getting low? We were planning on selling this house and didn't want to have to do any more costly repairs before the sale. Thanks in advance.



Trevor



Forgot to add, the well pump is probably 23 years old. That's when the house was built.

Well pump not working properly

Upstairs too hot! with radiators!

This is all I know so far. One zone small Dutch colonial 2 story. I thought this would be steam she is telling me it is Hot Water. Heading over to check things out in the next week. The furnace was recently replaced within the past few years, I would of thought a good provider would of installed a second zone?

She claims by being comfortable downstairs its way too hot upstairs.?

FYI: Domestic HOT Water is a separate unit.

What if any quick fix can be done to possibly reduce heat upstairs.

Upstairs too hot! with radiators!

Shower won't turn on - frozen pipes?

My shower won't turn on. I have a single handle that works both the hot and cold water, and nothing at all is coming out.



I used the shower about 12 hours ago with no problem. The bathroom backs onto a freezing cold garage with nothing but insulation and drywall protecting it from the single digit temperatures for the last week or so in Baltimore, MD.



The toilet and the sink in the bathroom, which are just a couple feet from the shower (closer to the warm part of the house and the hot water heater) are working fine.



My question is, could this be a frozen pipe situation? What are the odds that both the hot and cold water pipes froze solid within 12 hours (granted, in very cold weather) just feet from where they're currently working fine?



There's no way to get to the pipes behind the shower without tearing out drywall in the garage, which I worry sets us up for greater likelihood of the pipes freezing over back there, whether or not there's a current frozen pipe.



Right now we have the baseboard heater in that bathroom on full crank and the door closed. Is that the right move? What if it is a frozen pipe and it's busted, are we setting ourselves up for a flood?



And, of course, if it's not necessarily a frozen pipe, what else could the problem with my shower be?



Any help greatly appreciated!

Shower won't turn on - frozen pipes?

Expansion Tank Distance

I am planning on relocating an expansion tank from its current very inaccessible location behind the boiler. The new tank is an Amtrol #60 (diaphram 7.6 gallon). It will be typically connected from the bottom of a Spirovent with a TEE to the cold water input. All of this in on the intake side of the system circulator. Pumping away applies.



My question: It there a minimum or maximum distance for the expansion tank location from the air eliminator or boiler. Based only on physical ease ideally the expansion tank would be about 4 feet away. I have never seen this and wonder if it is acceptable.

Expansion Tank Distance

Need help with wiring my honeywell zone valves

Hello I just recently moved to a new house. The old owner have installed 4 Honeywell V8043E1012 zone valves to a Hydro therm HC 165 gas boiler. For some unknown reason he had all 4 zone valves connected to only one thermostat controlling the whole house. I want to wire them properly having a separate thermostat for each zone. The wiring the previous owner did is a nightmare. I have undid the wiring and attempting to rewire first one zone to make sure it works. after connecting I can see and hear the zone motor running but I can't get the boiler to turn on when it calls for heat. there are 4 wires on the zone valve 2 yellow and 2 red. I connected One yellow wire to the transformer common and the other one goes to the t-stat. Then I connected the transformer hot to the other side of the t-stat to complete the circuit. I am not to sure about what to do do with the 2 red wires. any input will be appreciated. Thanks in advance

Need help with wiring my honeywell zone valves

Need help with wiring my honeywell zone valves

Hello I just recently moved to a new house. The old owner have installed 4 Honeywell V8043E1012 zone valves to a Hydro therm HC 165 gas boiler. For some unknown reason he had all 4 zone valves connected to only one thermostat controlling the whole house. I want to wire them properly having a separate thermostat for each zone. The wiring the previous owner did is a nightmare. I have undid the wiring and attempting to rewire first one zone to make sure it works. after connecting I can see and hear the zone motor running but I can't get the boiler to turn on when it calls for heat. there are 4 wires on the zone valve 2 yellow and 2 red. I connected One yellow wire to the transformer common and the other one goes to the t-stat. Then I connected the transformer hot to the other side of the t-stat to complete the circuit. I am not to sure about what to do do with the 2 red wires. any input will be appreciated. Thanks in advance

Need help with wiring my honeywell zone valves

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